STACK 

ANNEX 


ilifornia 

;ional 

ility 


:^IRST  YEAR  LATHE  WORK 

BXT  BOOK  for  STUDENTS  ia  TECHNICAL  and  MANUAL  TRAINING  SCHOOLS 

PRICE  10  CENTS 


SOUTH  BEND  LATHE  WORKS 

SOUTH  BEND,  INDIANA,  U.  S.  A. 


The  demand  for  machinists  is  so  great 
and  the  supply  so  limited  in  nearly  ev- 
ery city  in  the  United  States  that  the 
manufacturers  in  the  larger  cities  have 
a  standing  offer  with  the  Manual  Train- 
ing Schools  for  the  employment  of  all 
young  men  who  have  finished  the 
machine  shop  course. 


FIRST  YEAR  LATHE  WORK 

Prepared  for  Students  in  Technical,  Manual  Training, 
and  Trade  Schools,  and  for  the  Apprentice  in  the  Shop 

<I  Tin-  Ntiiilcnt  in  llii'  scliool  shop  takes  a  di'cp  iiid'icst  in  niiikinii  parts 
for  a  niacliinc,  knowinii  1  liat  1  he  n\a<hini'  will  b<-  asscnilil<-(l,  antl  placcci 
in  oprriition  in  t  he  s<'.hool  shoj).  'I'his  will  fiivo  him  iiii  opportnnit\-  lo 
ol>s('rv*'  the  reasons  for  t  h*'  Viirions  op<'ratif>ns  on  <'iK*.h  jol>. 

^  The  instructor  will  he  reli«-ve(l  of  endless  and  unnecessary  det;iil,  if 
the  instruction  plan  in  tliis  hook  is  followed. 

I  The  inst  rnet  ion  plan  for  hnildinij  t  his  lit  t  le  (  irinder  has  heen  arranijed 
t4>  follow  ehtsel_\-  tin*  methods  us<'d  in  modern  shop  priU'ti<'e.  so  thiit  the 
sindeni  who  (inishes  "  Kirst  ^'ear  hallie  Work""  intelligently,  will  he 
familiar  witli  man>'  of  the  f  n  ndamentals.  when  h<'  starts  out  in  lif<'  on 
his  lirst  jol)  in  the  industrial  machine  shop. 

CopyriiilU  l;nr  l.y  OUUlliN  HKOS. 
~.I.  .1.  O'Brien,  M.  \V.  O'Brien 


TEXT  BOOK  No.  2 


SOUTH  BEND  LATHE  WORKS     SOUTH  BEND,  IND.,  U.  S.  A. 

428    E.    MADISON    STREET 


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South  Bexd  Lathe  Works,  South   Bend,   Ixdiaxa 


39      39 


Pari  Xiinihcrs  and    Xanics  of  S-|  mli  Hcnch  (i 


PART  KO.                       \AME 

I'AltT  M).                         SAili: 

23     Machine  Bolts  (4) 

34 

"T"  Rest 

29     Grinder  Head 

3.T 

"T"  Rest  Bracket 

30     Caps  (2) 

30 

Angle  Rest 

;U     Spindle 

37 

Angle  Rest  Bi'acket 

32     Spindle  Pulley 

3.S 

Inside  Flanges  (2i 

33     Rest  Brackets  L.I  2) 

3!l 

Outside  Flanges  (2) 

4:")  R.  H.  Spindle  Hex.  Xut 

46  L.  H.  Spindle  Hex.  Nut 

47  Fillister  Head  Cap  Screws  ( 4 1 

48  Headless  Set   Screw 

49  Sq.  Head  Set  Screws   (6) 

50  Oil  Cups  (2) 

51  Emery  Wheels  (2) 


A  — lioverso 
B  — Back  Gear   Lpvit 
C  — Back  Gears 
D — Spindle  Cone 
E— Head    Stock 
I'  —Face   Plate 


r;  — Saddlp 

M 

— Lead  Screw  Bracket  I 

lead 

R 

—  Cross   Feed   Ball   Crank 

11— Tool  Tost 

End 

S 

— (_'r<tss  Feed   Lever  Knob 

1   — Compound 

Itcst 

N 

—Legs 

■1' 

— Apron  Xnt  Cam 

.1  — Tail  Stock 

1)  - 

—Apron  Hand  Wheel 

I 

—Rack 

K — Tail   Stock 

Ilan.l 

Will'.' 

r- 

—Apron 

v 

— Lead  Screw 

I Lathe  Bed 

t) 

—  Apron   ("lutch 

w 

— Lead   Screw    Bracket   Tail 
stock  End 

S  ()  I'  i'  II      B  li  N  n     L  A  T  HE      Works,     So  i;  t  n      Be  .\  i>,      I  x  d  i  a  x  a 


Princiiial  Parts  of  a  Standard  Engine  Latlio 


On  Page  4  UP  illustrate  a  Standard  Screw  Cut- 
ting Engine  Lathe.  We  have  lettered  a  few  of  the 
most  important  parts,  so  that  the  beginner  may  be- 
pome  familiar  with  their  use. 

This  Engine  loathe  is  equipped  with  automatic 
lonsiturtinal  feed  and  automatic  cross  feed.  To 
operate  the  automatic  longitudinal  feed,  loosen 
Knob  "S"  by  unscrewing,  then  push  it  down  as  far 
as  it  will  go.  and  screw  tight.  Fasten  Knob  "Q" 
tight.  The  automatic  longitudinal  feed  is  now  in 
operation. 

To  release  automatic  longitudinal  feed,  siujply 
unscrew  Knob  "Q,"  which  I'eleases  the  friction 
feed. 

To  connect  the  automatic  cross  feed,  unscrew 
Knob  ■•S"  and  lift  it  as  high  as  it  will  go,  then 
screw  tight,  fasten  Knob  "Q"  tight.  .\ow  the 
automatic  cross  feed  is  connected. 

When  the  automatic  cross  feed  is  connected, 
the  automatic  longitudinal  feed  is  disconnected. 
When  the  automatic  longitudinal  feed  is  connected 
the  automatic  cross  feed  is  disconnected.  There- 
fore it  is  impossible  to  have  both  feeds  connected 
at  the  same  time,  and  while  one  feed  is  in  oper- 
ation it  is  impossible  for  the  other  feed  to  drop  in. 


For  screw  cutting  neither  of  the  automatic 
feeds  are  used,  so  when  cutting  a  screw  be  sure 
to  see  that  Knob  "Q"  is  loose,  not  tight.  In  cut- 
ting a  screw  or  thread,  the  split  nuts  are  clamped 
on  to  the  lead  screw  by  Cam  "T".  For  the  detail 
of  thread  cutting  see  Section  37  of  book  entitled 
"How  to  Run  a  Lathe." 

Oil  the  lathe  frequently.  If  the  lathe  is  used 
every  day,  it  should  be  oiled  every  morning  be- 
fore starting.  Use  a  good  grade  of  machine  oil, 
none  other.  Oil  tlie  head  stock  spindle,  the  back 
gear  quill,  the  spindle  cone,  the  thrust  collar,  the 
lead  screw  bearings,  the  apron  gears  and  studs, 
the  carriage  bearings,  the  rear  carriage  gib;  and 
move  or  operate  each  part  by  hand,  to  see  that  it 
moves  freely,  before  starting  the  lathe. 

For  further  information  of  details  and  parts  of 
the  Screw  Cutting  Engine  Lathe,  see  little  book 
entitled  "How  to  Run  a  Lathe."  described  on  page 
1)4  of  this  book. 


CATALOG.  Free  interesting  catalog.  No.  50. 
just  off  the  press,  describing  the  entire  line 
of  South  Bend  Lathes,  showing  iirices  of  all 
lathes  and  attachments.  Catalog  mailed  free 
to  any  address. 


South   B  e  x  d   Lathe   Works,   S  o  ir  t  ii   Bend.   I  x  n  i  a  x  a 


Contoriiig 


To  machine  a  shaft  on  centers 
in  the  lathe,  it  is  necessary  that  it 
be  centered.  A  hole  is  drilled  and 
countersunk  in  each  end  so  that  the 
shaft  may  revolve  on  lathe  centers. 
Before  centering  a  piece  of  soft 
steel,  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
shaft  is  as  straight  as  possible,  be- 
cause the  straighter  the  piece  is, 
the  smaller  the  diameter  of  the 
rough  stock  required. 

There  are  many  ways  of  center- 
ing. Tte  simplest  is  to  chalk  the 
end  of  the  shaft  to  be  centered. 
Scratch  two  lines  at  right  angles  to 
each  other,  and  where  these  lines 
intersect  will  be  the  approximate 
center  of  the  shaft.     See  Fig.  4. 

Drive  center  punch  on  the  intersection  of  lines 
on  both  ends  of  the  shaft.  Place  the  shaft  thus 
punched,  on  the  centers  of  the  lathe,  revolve  by 
hand;  if  it  does  not  run  true,  hold  a  piece  of  chalk 
to  the  shaft  while  revolving  and  it  will  mark  the 
high  spots.  Place  shaft  in  the  vise  once  more, 
drive  the  center  in  the  direction  necessary  to  have 
the  shaft  run  true. 


Centering  an  Irregular  Piece 

Figure  "M"  shows  the  method  of  centering  the 
T  Rest,  or  any  irregular  part  that  has  a  round 
shank. 

Chalk  the  ends  of  the  part  to  be  centered,  and 
place  the  part  to  be  turned  on  the  "V"  Block. 
With  a  surface  gauge  make  a  mark  on  both  ends 
of  the  piece.  Then  revolve  the  piece  on  the  "V" 
Block  a  quarter  of  a  revolution,  and  make  another 
mark  on  each  end.  Complete  the  four  quarters  of 
a  revolution  in  this  manner.  The  intersection  of 
these  marks  will  be  the  proper  center  point. 


S  o  I-  T  K      B  j;  .N  1)      L  A  1  II  i:      W  o  E  K  s,      So  u  t  ii      B  e  .n  ii.      1  n  h  i  a  n  a 


ir  the  piece  to  be  machined  is  close  to  size  in 
the  rough  so  that  very  little  stock  is  left  for  fin- 
ishing, care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  bar  is 
straight  as  possible  and  that  the  center  holes  are 
located  accuratelj-  so  that  the  shaft  may  be  true 
all  over  when  finished. 

Drill  and  countersink  each  end  of  the  shaft  un- 
til a  depth  is  reached  sufficient  to  support  the  shaft 
on  the  centers  while  it  is  being  machined.  A  good 
method  of  countersinking  is  shown  in  Fig.  .">. 

In  centering  a  shaft  that  Is  over  3  or  4  pounds 
in  weight,  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the 
weight  of  the  shaft  does  not  break  the  center  drill. 
If  the  piece  being  centered  is  steel  or  iron,  there 


should  be  oil  used  on  the  center  drill,  and  the  oper- 
ator should  feed  the  shaft  slowly  to  the  drill. 

If  for  any  reason  a  center  drill  breaks  and  part 
of  the  broken  drill  remains  in  the  shaft,  this 
broken  part  should  be  immediately  removed. 
Sometimes  you  may  be  able  to  work  the  broken 
part  out  with  a  chisel,  but  occasionally  it  sticks 
so  hard  that  it  cannot  be  removed.  In  that  case, 
the  broken  part  of  the  drill  left  in  the  shaft  must 
be  annealed,  and  the  only  way  to  anneal  it  is  to 
anneal  the  end  of  the  shaft.  For  annealing  see 
Section  63,  I.athe  Book.    (How  to  Run  a  Lathe.) 

Long  shafts  may  be  centered  with  a  breast  drill 
or  brace  and  bit.  The  regular  countersinks  may 
be  used  in  the  same  manner. 


LIcO 


Goil  II  t  •'!•> 


I  k  i  1 1 1 


A  drill  chuck,  holding  a  combined  drill  and 
countersink  (See  Fig.  .5B,  page  8),  is  fitted  to  the 
head  spindle  of  lathe.  Tlie  shaft  has  already  been 
center  punched.  Place  end  of  shaft  on  tail  center  and 


Shalt   ill  the  Lathe 

hold  with  left  hand,  and  feed  to  the  drill  by  turn- 
ing the  wheel  of  tail  stock.  Allow  the  countersink 
to  enter  the  proper  dejjth,  countersink  the  other 
end  in  the  same  manner. 


South     B  e  x  d     Lathe      Works,     S  o  u  i  h      Bend,      Indiana 


Drill  and  C'oiintorsink  ('oiiiliiiicd 
Fig.  5B  shows  a  combined  drill  and  counter- 
sink, which  is  both  the  center  drill  and  counter- 
sink. Centering  may  also  be  done  by  a  small 
twist  drill  tor  the  center  hole  and  a  larger  twist 
drill  ground  60  degrees  following  as  a  countersink. 


Proper  Countersink 


I-iK.  8 


ri«. 


Figs.  S  and  ii  show  two  styles  countersink  that 
are  used  to  follow  the  small  twist  drill  for  counter- 
sinking. 

Fig.  7  shows  the  style  of  countersink  which 
gives  best  results.  A  small  hole  Is  first  drilled  be- 
yond the  depth  of  the  point  of  the  lathe  center;  it 
is  then  countersunk  on  an  angle  of  60  degrees  to 
fit  the  lathe  center. 


w 

r 

1 

A 

w 

' 

F,o.  7 


ln^i)ri>l)er  ("entering 


South     Bend     Lathe     Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Lilt  ho  Dogs 

The  common  lathe  dog  i&  used  for  driving  round 
or  cylindrical  pieces  that  are  machined  between 
centers  on  the  lathe. 


The  clamp  lathe  dog  is  used  for  the  same  pur- 
pose as  the  common  dog,  but  is  more  practical  for 
holding  rectangular  work. 


Tiiriiiiig  a  Strcl  Shaft 

The  illustration  above  shows  a  steel  shaft  being 
machined  on  a  lathe.  The  shaft  is  driven  between 
centers  by  a  common  lathe  dog  that  is  firmly  at- 
tached by  a  set  screw,  the  tail  of  the  dog  enters 
the  slot  in  the  face  plate. 


<'liimp  I.atlie   Doff 

The  names  of  a  few  schools  using  South  Bend  Lathes  will  be  found  on  the  outside  cover. 


South      Bexd     Lathe     Works,     South      Bekd,      I?i-diaka 


Patent  Turning  Tool 


Illustration  herewith  shows  a  Patent  Turning 
Tool.  Some  mechanics  prefer  to  use  the  Patent 
Tools  rather  than  the  forged  steel  lathe  tools. 


9     10    11    12 


Forged  Steel  Lathe  Tools 


Lett-hand   Side   Tool  7 

Right-hand  Side   Tool  S 

Right-hand  Bent   Tool  9 

Right-hand   Diamond  10 

Point  n 

Left-hand  Diamond  Point  12 
Round  Nose  Tool 


Cutting-off  Tool 
Threading  Tool 
Bent   Threading  Tool 
Roughing  Tool 
Boring  Tool 
Inside  Threading  Tool 


Forged  Steel  Lathe  Tools 

The  twelve  lathe  tools  illustrated  have  been 
selected  as  the  most  practical  set  of  forged  tools 
for  general  all-round  work  on  the  lathe.  These 
tools  are  made  both  in  carbon  and  the  high  speed 
steels.  The  size  of  the  tools  vary  to  suit  the  differ- 
ent size  lathes. 

Lathe  Tools 

Tlie  drawings  on  page  11  show  the  application 
of  the  above  twelve  lathe  tools.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  use  forged  steel  lathe  tools,  as  the  patent  lathe 
tool  shown  herewith  may  be  applied  in  the  same 

way. 

The  arrow  shows  the  direction  of  the  feed  of 
the  tool.  In  some  cases  the  tool  may  be  fed  to  ad- 
vantage in  two  directions.  For  example,  in  draw- 
ing No.  1,  the  arrow  shows  the  tool  feeding  out 
toward  the  periphery.  This  tool  may  also  be  fed  in 
toward  the  center.  Again,  in  drawing  No.  11,  the 
boring  tool  is  feeding  to  the  left.  This  tool  may 
also  take  a  cut  in  feeding  to  the  right. 

Patent  Lathe  Tools 

There  are  several  lines  of  excellent  patent  lathe 
tools  on  the  market  for  turning,  boring,  thread  cut- 
ting, knurling,  etc. 


^tF 


^ 


"lon^^ 


11 


12 

SOUTH    BEND    LATHE    WORKS. 


South     B  e  .n  d     Lathe      Works,     South      B  e  is-  d,      I  >-  d  i  a  x  a 


The  Position  of  tUittiug  Edge  of  Tool 

In  setting  a  tool  for  cutting  threads,  turning 
taper,  or  boring,  the  height  of  the  cutting  edge  of 
the  tool  should  be  in  a  line  with  the  axis  or  point  of 
the  lathe  center. 

The  position  of  the  cutting  edge  of  a  turning  tool 
for  machining  metal  is  quite  important.     In  most 

work,  we  fi  n  d 
that  about  5  de- 
grees above  the 
center  gives  best 
results.  (See 
Fig.  12.)  The 
position  of  the 
tool  also  de- 
pends  upon  its 
clearance  and 
rake,  and  upon  the  material  to  be  cut  as:  cast 
iron,  soft  steel,  or  tool  steel,  etc.  A  little  practice 
will  enable  operator  to  learn  the  proper  height  on 
different  jobs. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  the  cutting  edge  of 
the  tool  does  not  extend  too  far  from  the  tool  post, 
especially  on  a  heavy  cut,  because  the  nearer  the 
tool  post  is  to  the  work,  the  more  firmly  the  tool 
can  be  held. 

The  surface  scale  on  a  piece  of  cast  iron  is 
often  very  hard  and  sometimes  will  ruin  the  cut- 
ting point  of  the  tool.  For  this  reason  the  first  or 
roughing  cut  should  be  deep  enough  to  get  under 


the  scale.  The  scale  must  also  be  remembered 
when  turning  a  piece  of  steel,  as  some  kinds  of 
steel  contain  a  scale  that  will  quickly  dull  the  cut- 
ting edge  of  the  turning  tool. 

Grinding  the  Tool 

The  efficiency  of  the  cutting  edge  of  a  tool  de- 
pends a  great  deal  upon  the  way  it  is  ground  or 
sharpened.  The  tool  should  have  plenty  of  clear- 
ance, a  good  rake  and  a  clean  cutting  edge.  The 
cutting  edge  of  the  tool  is  changed  somewhat  for 
various  metals.  After  grinding  a  tool  it  would  be 
well  to  dress  up  the  cutting  edge  by  hand  with  a 
small  oil  stone.  This  will  improve  its  wearing 
qualities. 

Direction  of  Feed  With  a  .Toh  on  C'.entor.s 

In  machining  a  job  on  centers  in  the  lathe,  the 
feed  of  the  tool  should  always  be,  when  possible, 
in  the  direction  of  the  head  spindle.  The  reason 
is  obvious:  WTien  the  carriage  is  feeding  toward 
the  head  spindle  and  the  tool  taking  a  heavy  chip, 
the  pressure  is  on  the  head  center  which  revolves 
with  the  work.  Should  the  tool  when  taking  a 
heavy  chip  feed  toward  the  tail  stock,  then  the 
pressure  is  on  the  tail  center,  which  is  station- 
ary, and  is,  therefore,  liable  to  heat  unless  oiled 
frequently. 


S  o  \;  T  H     Bend     Lathe      W  o  b  k  s,     Sou  t  h      B  e  n  i>,      Indiana 


Kaciiiii  KikI  i>(  Sli;il't 

When  a  shaft  is  being  machined  on  centers,  if 
accurate  work  is  to  be  done,  the  ends  of  shaft  must 
be  faced  so  that  they  will  ride  on  the  centers  even- 
ly, A  side  tool  is  usually  used  to  do  the  facins. 
(See  Fig.  11.) 

In  facing  with  a  side  tool  it  may  be  necessary 
to  face  into  the  countersink  hole.  On  reaching 
the   edge  of  the   countersink,  tail  center   may   be 

withdrawn  slight- 
ly. This  enables 
I  the  side  tool  to 
Mace  the  end  clean. 
When  shaft  is 
faced  ready  for 
general  machin- 
ing, place  a  droii 
of  oil  on  the  tail  stock  center,  also  a  drop  in  the 
countersunk  hole  of  .shaft.  Adjust  the  tail  stock 
center  so  that  the  shaft  has  a  slight  play  on  the 
centers  (it  must  not  turn  bard  on  the  centers), 
then  fasten  the  tail  stock  spindle  by  the  binding 
clamp.     Keep  oil  on  the  tail  center. 


When   we   refer  to   Lathe   Book,   we  mean 
book  entitled  "How  to  Run  a  Lathe." 


(] 


Turniii;^   to  a  Klimilcler 

The  above  illustrations  Figure  "A"  and  Figure 
"B,"  show  the  advantage  of  using  a  Cutting-Off 
Tool  in  locating  the  shoulder  on  a  turned  shaft. 
Start  the  Cutting-Off  Tool  about  1/32"  from  the 
finished  line  of  the  shoulder  and  feed  in  until  you 
reach  a  diameter  about  1/32"  larger  than  the  fin- 
ish size,  then  rough  the  stock  off  with  a  diamond 
point  tool  and  finish  the  face  of  shoulder  with  a 
side  tool. 


For  illustration,  description  and  principal 
dimensions  of  South  Bend  Lathes,  see  pages 
62  and  63  of  this  book. 


SoriH     Bend     Lathe      Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  1.     Part  No.  35.     Drawing  No.  135. 


1.  CLEANIXG  THE  CASTING.  All  sand,  gates 
and  sprues  should  be  removed  from  the  casting,  by 
chipping,  grinding  and  filing. 

2.  CENTERING.  To  locate  the  centers,  follow 
instructions  shown  on  pages  6,  7  and  S. 

3.  DRIVING.  Attach  a  common  lathe  dog  to 
the  solid  end  of  Rest  Bracket.  Place  the  bracket 
on  centers,  put  a  couple  drops  of  oil  on  the  tail 
center  point,  adjust  the  tail  center  so  that  the 
bracket  has  slight  play  on  centers  —  not  too  loose; 
then  clamp  tail  spindle  firmly. 

4.  CUTTING  SPEED.  The  material,  being  cast 
iron,  the  proper  cutting  speed  for  ,Job  No.  1  is 
SS-feet  per  minute.  This  being  the  first  job,  per- 
haps it  would  be  better  not  to  run  over  40-feet  per 
minute.  Rule  for  Cutting  Speed  of  Metals  will  be 
found  in  Section  44  of  book  entitled  "How  to  Run 
a  Lathe."     (See  page  64.) 

5.  HEIGHT  OF  TOOL.  For  the  position  of  the 
cutting  edge  of  tool,  see  explanation  page  12. 

6.  FACING  THE  ENDS.  To  face  the  ends  of 
bracket,  see  illustration  Figure  "R,"  page  56.  This 
operation  is  further  described  on  page  13,  "Facing 
End  of  Shaft."  After  the  end  is  faced  true,  re- 
move the  common  dog,  and  attach  a  Clamp  Dog 
to  the  cored  end  of  bracket,  (see  drawing  Figure 
"O,"  page  56)  and  face  the  solid  end  of  shaft. 


7.  TURNING.  Let  the  clamp  dog  remain  at- 
tached to  the  cored  end  of  bracket,  and  place  the 
job  on  lathe  centers.  Select  a  diamond  point 
turning  tool,  and  take  a  roughing  chip  (see  illus- 
tration Figure  "O,"  page  56)  the  full  length  of  the 
bracket.  Always  adjust  the  depth  of  the  roughing 
cut  so  the  cutting  edge  of  tool  will  be  underneath 
the  scale. 

8.  STRAIGHT  TURNING.  After  the  first,  or 
roughing  chip  has  been  taken,  caliper  the  turned 
part  at  both  ends,  to  see  that  the  piece  is  machined 
straight  or  parallel.  If  there  is  any  tendency  to 
turn  taper,  adjust  the  tail  stock  center  in  the  prop- 
er direction.  For  straight  and  taper  turning,  see 
Section  46  of  book  "How  to  Run  a  Lathe." 

9.  FINISHING.  The  machined  part  of  this 
bracket  is  to  be  turned  and  finished  to  %"  diame- 
ter, in  order  to  pass  through  a  %"  hole  in  the 
grinder  rest  bracket  "L,"  shown  on  page  19;  this 
may  be  seen  better  in  half-tone  on  page  2.  It  is, 
therefore,  better  to  defer  finishing  chip  until  the 
holes  in  all  tour  rest  brackets  have  been  bored. 
Leave  diameter  of  the  turned  part  of  the  rest 
bracket  about  1/32"  over  size,  so  when  the  holes 
in  all  rest  brackets  are  bored,  the  shanks  may  be 
turned  to  the  proper  size,  in  order  to  make  a  gofid 
fit  in  the  holes. 


14 


Job  No.  2.     Part  No.  37.     Drawing  No.  137 


1.  JIachine  Job  Xo.  2  in  the  same  way  as  Job 
No.  1,  as  the  instructions  of  Job  Xo.  1  will  apply  in 
every  way  to  Job  Xo.  2;  the  only  difference  being 
the  shaft  or  shank  of  Job  Xo.  2  is  the  longer. 

2.  FIXISHIXG.  After  taking  the  first  or 
roughing  chip  on  the  diameter  of  shank,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  it  is  being  turned 
parallel.  If  the  cutting  tool  is  at  all  dull,  it  should 
be  shai'pened,  and  the  cutting  edge  rubbed  with  an 
oil  stone,  by  hand.  For  calipering  the  turned  part, 
an  ordinary  spring  caliper  may  be  used,  but  a  mi- 
crometer caliper  is  recommended,  for  it  immedi- 
ately shows  the  operator  how  much  material  is 
left  over  the  finished  dimensions. 

Drilling  and   Tapping   Brackets 

3.  DRILLING.  We  shall  here  describe  the 
method  of  drilling  and  tapping  the  cored  end  of  the 
four  brackets  for  the  %"  set  screws,  but  we  shall 
have  to  postpone  this  operation  until  the  three 
brackets  are  turned  and  bored  complete.  This 
drilling  must  be  the  last  operation,  for  the  reason 
it  removes  the  center. 

To   drill    the    %"   hole   in   the   end   of   bracket. 


l)lace  the  bracket  in  a  Chuck,  (see  Figure  "D"). 
The  machined  part  of  this  bracket  should  run  true 
when  the  chuck  revolves.  Adjust  the  jaws  of  the 
chuck  accordingly,  until  the  bracket  does  run  true. 
Place  a  Standard  Drill  Chuck  in  the  tail  stock  of 
the  lathe.  With  a  ,=,;"  Drill  in  the  chuck,  start  the 
lathe  and  drill  the  hole. 


4.  TAPPI.NG.  Remove  the  bracket  from  the 
chuck,  and  fasten  it  upright  in  a  vise.  Select  a 
%",  16-thread.  right  hand  V.  S.  Standard  Taper 
Tap.  and  with  a  hand  tap  wrench,  tap  the  hole. 
Be  sure  to  keep  the  tap  straight,  or  parallel  to  the 
a.xis  of  the  bracket.  Use  a  few  drops  of  oil  on  the 
tap  thread..  Remove  the  taper  ta])  and  follow  with 
a  plug  tap. 


South  Bend  Lathe  Wokks,  South   Bend,   Indiana 


Job  No.  3.     Part  No.  33.     Uiawing  No.  133. 


1.  Machine  Job  Xo.  3  in  tlie  same  manner  as 
Jobs  Xo.  1  and  Xo.  2,  as  the  instructions  appl.ving 
to  Jobs  Xo.  1  and  Xo,  2  will  also  apply  to  Job  Xo.  3, 
tor  it  is  similar,  except  that  the  shank  of  shaft  in 
Job.  Xo.  3  is  longer  than  either  one  of  the  other 
two. 

2.  When  machining  a  job  on  centers,  the  tail 
stock  center  should  be  oiled  carefully.  This  cen- 
ter has  been  hardened  and  tempered,  so  the  ,1ob 
revolving  on  this  hard  center,  requires  lubrication. 

Boring  the  Brackets 

3.  BORIXG  THE  HOLE.  We  describe  here- 
with the  method  of  boi'ing  the  %-inch  hole  in  the 
brackets  of  Jobs  Xo.  1,  Xo.  2  and  Xo.  3.  This  hole 
may  be  bored  any  time  after  the  four  brackets 
are  rough  turned. 

Place  a  drill  pad  in  the  tail  stock  spindle,  and  a 
drill  chuck  in  the  head  si)indle.  Use  a  47  64"  drill 
in  the  chuck.  The  bracket  to  be  drilled  should  be 
held  in  position  as  shown  in  drawing.  Figure  "Z" 
herewith.  Xote  there  is  a  small  piece  of  %" 
board  between  the  bracket  and  the  drill  pad.  The 
reason  is  so  that  when  the  drill  passes  through  the 
bracket,  it  will  finish  in  the  wood,  not  in  the 
drill  pad. 

The  drill  should  revolve  slowly.  Operate  the 
feed  by  hand  wheel  of  tail  stock,  and  feed  slowly, 
especially  when  the  drill  reaches  within  jVi"  of  the 
end  of  the  hole.     It   is  not   necessary  to  hold  the 


bracket  by  hand  while  being  drilled,  but  to  let  the 
end  of  bracket  rest  on  top  of  compound  rest,  as 
shown  in  drawing  Figure  "Z." 

When  the  47/64"  hole  is  drilled  in  all  four 
brackets,  remove  the  drill  and  replace  it  with  a 
%"  Standard  Reamer.  The  reaming  operation  is 
almost  similar  to  that  of  the  drilling,  except  that 
the  reamer  should  revolve  slower  and  the  work 
should  be  fed  to  the  reamer  more  slowly  than  in 
drilling. 

Another,  but  a  more  difficult  way  to  do  this  job, 
would  be  to  clamp  the  bracket  to  the  face  plate, 
and  machine  with  a  boring  tool. 


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South      Be>d     Lathe     Wobks,     South      Bend,     Indiana 


Job  No.  4.     Part  Xo.  31.     Drawing  No.  134. 


1 .  CENTERING.  To  locate  the  centers  on 
Job  No.  4.  see  drawing  Figure  "^M,"  page  6. 

2.  DRIVING.  Owing  to  the  construction  of 
the  "T"  Rest,  we  cannot  drive  it  with  either  the 
common  lathe  dog  or  the  clamp  dog,  so  it  is  neces- 
sary to  attach  a  stud  to  the  face  plate,  as  per 
drawing  herewith.  This  stud  is  simply  a  short 
piece  of  steel,  about  %"  diameter.  3"  long,  thread- 
ed on  one  end  for  the  distance  of  2".  By  using 
two  standard  nuts,  this  stud  can  be  clamped  firm- 
ly to  the  face  plate  (an  ordinary  machine  bolt, 
V2  X  3",  will  serve).  Note  this  stud  should  not  ex- 
tend any  farther  than  the  part  of  the  casting  which 
it  drives.  The  reason  is  so  the  revolving  stud  will 
not  interfere  with  the  carriage  of  the  lathe  during 
the  turning  operation. 

3.  FACING.  The  shaft  end  of  the  "T"  Rest 
only  is  to  be  faced. 

4.  TURNING.  With  the  "T"  Rest  on  centers, 
place  a  diamond  point  tool  in  the  tool  post,  and 
take  a  light  turning  chip  the  entire  length  of  the 
round  part  or  shaft  of  the  "T"  Rest.  Caliper  for 
parallel  turning.  Then  take  a  second  chip,  but  do 
not  finish  any  closer  than  1/32"  to  the  %"  dimen- 
sion. becauBe  shaft  of  this  "T"  Rest  should  not  be 


finished  until   the   hole   is  bored   in   the   "T"   Rest 
Bracket,  Part  No.  3.5,  or  Job  No.  1. 


There  are  several  dimensions  shown  in  "T" 
Rest  Bracket,  .lob  No.  4.  that  are  not  required  for 
machining.  Most  of  these  dimensions  are  to  be 
followed  only  for  making  the  pattern  for  the  "T" 
Rest. 

Tie  with  Belt  Laco 

When  driving  a  job  on  centers  by  a  stud  bolted 
to  the  face  plate  instead  of  a  common  lathe  dog, 
the  job  should  be  tied  to  this  stud  with  a  piece  of 
belt  lacing.  This  is  es|)ecially  true  when  filing  or 
polishing  a  piece  that  is  revolving  at  a  high  speed 
on  centers. 

A  good  lathe  hand  can  run  any  kind  of  a   machine. 


■Ij 


Jch    No.    4.. 

Maleri  at  -  Cast  Iron 
No.  Pieces    Required' 


16     '8 


5 
3? 


32 


32 

60 


Tf- 


"^s 


3 


DRfkwiNe  «o  /J-4.    p»nT  No.  34. 


GRINDER   T  REST 


Scale WorK  to  figures. 

SOUTH  BCND   LATHE    W0T>H3.     | 


South  Bend  Lathe  Works,  South   Bend,   Indiana 


Job  No.  5.     Part  Xo.  'Mi.     Driiwine  No.  136. 


1.  CENTERING.     To  center  Job  No.  .5.  follow 
instructions  shown  in  Job  No.  4. 

2.  DRIVING.     For  driving  Job  No.  5,  follow  in- 
structions described  in  Job  No.  4. 


It  will  be  noticed  in  Jobs  No.  4  and  No.  5,  they 
are  faced  only  on  the  shaft  end. 

Do  not  take  a  finishing  cut  on  Job  No.  5,  but 
allow  1  '31'"  stock  for  finishing  at  a  later  cut,  after 
bracket  in  which  angle  rest  fits  is  bored. 


Turning  A  Diameter  to  Fit  A  Machined  Hole  or  Gau^e 


In  turning  a  round  shaft  to  fit  a  cylinder  or  hole, 
we  should  first  learn  what  kind  of  a  fit  is  required. 
There  is  a  tight,  driving  fit,  such  as  is  required  for 
an  arbor.  There  is  a  pressing  fit,  such  as  is  re- 
quii-ed  for  an  inside  flange  on  a  grinder  spindle, 
and  there  is  a  loose  fit,  which  is  the  one  we  require 
on  .iobs  No.  1.  No.  2,  No.  3,  No.  4  and  No.  5. 

We  cannot  fit  the  round  end  or  shank  of  the 
bracket  to  the  hole  in  the  rests.  Jobs  No.  1,  No.  2 
and  No.  .3,  until  these  holes  have  been  machined. 
We  therefore  leave  the  round  part  or  shank  of  the 
bracket  about  1/32"  larger  in  diameter,  until  we 
are  ready  to  make  the  fit. 

When  the  holes  are  bored,  caliper  the  e.xact 
diameter  of  the  hole.  Or,  better  still,  select  an 
arbor  which  will  fit  the  round  hole.  Then  caliper 
the  arbor  at  a  point  where  it  fits  the  hole.  This 
will  be  the  exact  size  of  the  shanks  of  the  Angle 
Rest,  T  Rest  and  Bi'ackets. 


When  ready  to  make  the  fit,  place  the  job  on 
centers  and  take  a  light  chip,  not  extending  over 
Vi"  from  the  end  of  bracket.  Caliper  the  reduced 
diameter  carefully,  and  also  try  it  in  the  hole  for 
which  it  is  to  be  fitted.  If  you  can  enter  the  shaft 
,',/'  into  the  hole,  by  pressure,  then  you  can  finish 
the  chip. 

Change  the  belt,  so  the  spindle  will  run  at  high- 
est speed,  put  a  couple  drops  of  oil  on  the  tail 
center,  and  with  a  file,  smooth  the  end  of  the 
bracket  for  a  distance  of  about  1".  Then  remove 
the  bracket  from  centers,  and  try  it  in  the  hole. 
It  should  be  a  nice,  twisting  fit,  not  too  loose,  but 
just  so  it  will  slip  through  nicely  without  shaking. 

Care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  the  hole  into 
which  the  bracket  fits  is  true.  We  assume,  of 
course,  this  has  been  finished  with  a  reamer.  If  so, 
it  is  finished  to  size,  without  any  burrs  or  rough 
edges. 


—  1 

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Joh    No.  S. 

Materi  a/  -Casf  Iron 

No  Pieces    ReijujfecJ  ■ 


DRAWItJS  No  136       PART     rsio   3S 


GRII^DER     nNGl-E     REST 


Sca/e Wark   To  fiyur, 


SOUTH    BENO     LnTHE    WORKS. 


South     Bend     Lathe      Works,     South      Bend,      Indiaxa 


Job  No.  6.     Part  No.  31.      Drawing  Xo.  131. 


1.  MATERIAL.  Serine  a  piece  of  mild  steel, 
about  IV4"  diameter,  131/2"  long,  and  machine  so 
that  it  will  finish  to  the  dimensions  indicated  in 
drawing. 

Before  centering,  see  that  the  shaft  is  straight. 
If  it  is  bent  or  twisted  in  any  way,  straighten  it. 
After  you  have  located  the  center  marks,  place  the 
shaft  on  centers  and  revolve  it  by  hand.  WTien  it 
is  running  as  nearly  true  as  possible,  then  drill 
center  holes. 

2.  CENTERING.  For  centering,  follow  instruc- 
tions in  Job  No.  1.  except  that  in  centering  a  piece 
of  steel,  oil  should  be  used  on  the  center  drill. 

3.  TURNING.  Select  a  common  dog  of  suit- 
able size.  Face  both  ends  of  shaft,  then  with  a 
diamond  point  tool  take  a  rough  turning  cut  on 
the  diameter,  allowing  the  tool  to  cut  within  about 
3"  of  the  dog.  Then  transpose  the  dog  and  shaft, 
run  the  tool  back,  and  complete  the  roughing  cut 
on  the  opposite  end. 

In  turning  a  long  shaft,  it  is  very  necessary 
that  the  machined  or  turned  part  is  parallel.  This 
should  be  tested  carefully,  and  it  any  taper  is  indi- 
cated, tail  .stock  should  be  adjusted  and  a  light 
chip  taken,  until  the  |iiece  is  exactly  parallel. 


It  is  necessary  that  the  student  finish  .Job  No.  6 
exactly  to  the  dimensions  shown  in  drawing  so 
he  may  become  familiar  in  working  accurately  to 
dimensions. 

Job  No.  6  is  now  machined  in  the  rough,  and  is 
to  be  further  machined  as  the  grinder  spindle,  as 
shown  in  Jobs  No.  7,  No.  8  and  No.  9.  Note  the 
depth  of  the  centers  shown  in  drawing,  and  see 
that  your  centers  conform  to  these  dimensions. 

In  turning  a  piece  of  steel,  it  will  be  noticed 
that  the  chijjs  curl  more,  and  that  the  tool  becomes 
heated  more,  than  in  turning  cast  iron;  therefore, 
a  little  slower  speed  should  be  used,  and  the  turn- 
ing tool  should  be  watched  more  carefully,  to  see 
that  it  does  not  dull. 


Before  machining  a  piece  on  centers  in  the 
lathe,  see  that  the  centers  line  up,  as  per  cut  here- 
with. B'or  further  description  see  Section  -16  of 
Lathe  Book. 


1 

„  3" 

1  0  — 

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3" 

iZ 

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. 

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- 

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32 

Job    No.   6 

Maferial  -  Mild  Steel. 

Df^AWIHa  A/o. /3 /  \P/IRT  No.    31 

SPINDLE 

Scale Work   to  fiquret 

No   Piecfs     Required  -  1 

SOUTH   BEND     L»TH£    W0HK3 

South      B  e  x  d     Lathe      Works,     South      Ben  d,      I  n  »  i  a  x  a 


Job  No.  7.     Part  Xo.  31.     Drawing  No.  1.31-A. 


1.  MATERIAL.  For  Job  Xo.  7  use  the  shaft 
that  has  been  machined  in  Job.  No.  6. 

Take  a  turning  chip  that  will  reduce  the  diame- 
ter within  :,'^"  over  size,  the  entire  length  of  spin- 
dle. The  large  diameter  of  this  spindle  is  to  be 
fitted  to  spindle  pulley,  but  we  cannot  do  this 
fitting  until  the  spindle  pulley  is  machined. 

2.  LOCATING  THE  SHOULDERS.  When  we 
reduce  a  shaft  in  diameter  at  one  or  more  places, 
we  use  a  cutting-off  tool  to  locate  the  shoulder. 
(See  illustration  Figure  "T,"  page  .515.)  Fasten  the 
cutting-off  tool  in  the  tool  post.  Be  sure  to  see 
that  the  tool  has  clearance  on  both  sides.  Move 
the  cutting-off  tool  until  the  farther  side  is  3%" 
from  the  end  of  shaft,  that  is,  within  ,',."  of  the 
finished  length.  Now  start  the  lathe,  and  with  a 
spring  caliper  in  the  right  hand,  and  left  hand 
feeding  the  cutting-off  tool  forward,  take  a  light 
chip,  using  oil  on  the  cutting  edge  of  the  tool. 
Feed  carefully  until  the  proper  diameter  is  reached, 
which  will  be  indicated  by  the  caliper.  This  diame- 
ter should  be  about  j-.j"  larger  than  the  finished 
size.  Then  withdraw  the  tool,  transpose  the 
driving  dog  and  shaft,  and  repeat  the  shoulder  op- 
eration on  the  other  end  of  shaft.  Locate  the  two 
inside  shoulders  in  the  same  manner. 

3.  TURNING.  With  a  Turning  Tool,  reduce 
each  end  of  the  shaft  to  about  1/64"  larger  in  di- 


ameter than  the  dimensions  called  for.  Then  take 
a  chip  over  the  center  of  the  grinder  shaft,  re- 
ducing the  diameter  to  about  1/32"  larger  than  the 
drawing  calls  for. 

4.  TURNING  FOR  THREAD,  WHEEL,  AND 
FLANGE  DIAMETER.  Note  that  the  length  of 
thread  is  IVo"  from  either  end  of  spindle,  but 
that  the  %"  diameter  extends  2,',;"  from  the  end. 
This  dimension  includes  the  length  of  thread, 
plus  thickness  of  emery  wheel  and  outside  fiange. 
The  diameters  .752"  for  press  fit  are  to  accommo- 
date the  inside  fianges,  which  should  fit  fairly  tight 
on  the  shoulder.  This  diameter  we  cannot  ma- 
chine to  a  finish  until  inside  flanges  are  bored. 
(See  Job  No.  12,  page  37.)  The  two  bearings  are 
1"  in  diameter  and  2/1."  long.  These  can  be  fin- 
ished to  size  at  any  time.  The  1%"  diameter  is 
for  the  pulley.  This  diameter  should  not  be  fin- 
ished until  the  pulley  has  been  bored.  ( See  Pulley 
Job  No.  10.  page  32.1 

5.  As  we  cannot  finish  the  press  fit  for  the 
inside  flanges,  nor  the  diameter  where  pulley  fits, 
until  the  flanges  and  pulley  are  machined,  we 
can  go  ahead  with  the  thread  cutting.  It  the 
student  has  had  no  experience  in  thread  cutting, 
we  suggest  that  the  instructor  secure  a  number  of 
pieces  of  %"  shafting,  about  6"  long,  and  have 
each  student  practice  cutting  short  threads  on 
one  of  the  shafts  before  he  attempts  cutting  the 
thread  on  spindle. 


26 


3" 


■     i"     I 
.1" ^  Drill  52  '  8  deep. 


.752  -^ 


1 3 1" 


^or  press  fit 


16 


2fe 


•r 


16 


16 


'16 


Job     No     7 

Material  -Mild  Steel. 
No   Pieces     Rei^uireel  -  1 


DRfimiie  No.I3I-m\pmrt  no.  31 


SPINDLE. 


Scale WorH   to  figures. 

SOUTH  BEND      LATHE    WORKS. 


South     Bekd     Lathe      Works.     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  S.     Part  Xo.  81.     DrawiriQ  No.  l.ll-B. 


1.  MATERIAI..  For  Job  Xo.  S  we  use  the 
shaft  machined  in  ,Iolj  Xo.  7.  Cut  a  %"  x  10  U.  S. 
Standard  Thread,  right  hand,  on  one  end. 

a.  GEARIXG  LATHE.  For  thread  cutting  see 
Sections  38  and  39  of  Lathe  Book  for  selecting 
gears  to  secure  the  desired  pitch.  Also  see  Rule. 
Section  45,  of  Lathe  Book:  "Gearing  Any  Engine 
Lathe  for  Screw  Cutting." 

3.  SETTLXG  THE  THREAD  TOOL.  For  set- 
ting the  thread  tool,  see  Section  40  and  41  of  Lathe 
Book.  We  recommend  a  tool  similar  to  the  Patent 
Threading  Tool,  shown  in  Section  2S  of  Lathe 
Book. 

4.  LEXGTH  OF  THREAD.  The  length  of 
thread  to  be  cut,  as  shown  in  drawing,  is  1%". 
Measure  this  distance  from  the  end  of  the  shaft, 
and  make  a  prick  punch  mark.  Then,  with  a  i^" 
drill,  drill  a  hole  Vg"  deep,  using  this  prick  punch 
mark  as  a  center.  Attach  a  common  lathe  dog  to 
the  grinder  spindle,  and  place  it  on  the  centers. 
Be  sure  to  put  oil  on  your  tail  center,  and  clamp 
the  tail  spindle.  Xow  set  the  threading  tool,  with 
the  point  opposite  center  of  the  hole  you  have  ,1ust 
drilled,  where  the  thread  terminates.  Then  with 
a  center  gauge,  line  the  tool  up  properly  as  in 
Section  41  of  Lathe  Book,  drawing  Figure  1.^. 
The  height  of  the  cutting  edge  of  the  threading 
tool  should  be  even  with  the  axis  or  point  of  the 


lathe  center.  Fasten  the  thread-cutting  stop  to 
the  saddle,  as  explained  in  Section  40  of  Lathe 
Book.  Clamp  the  half  nuts  on  the  lead  screw,  re- 
verse the  countershaft.  This  will  run  the  carriage 
back  until  the  thread  cutting  tool  reaches  about 
Vs"  beyond  the  end  of  the  grinder  spindle. 

5.  FIRST  CHIP.  Before  taking  the  first  chip, 
study  Section  42  of  Lathe  Book.  See  that  the  lathe 
dog  is  fastened  securely  to  the  grinder  spindle, 
and  that  the  threading  tool  is  fastened;  then  pro- 
ceed with  the  first  chip,  allowing  the  tool  to  Just 
merely  scratch  the  sjundle.  Stop  the  lathe  before 
the  tool  reaches  the  hole,  showing  the  end  of  cut. 
This  hole  was  drilled  so  as  to  allow  the  tool  to  fin- 
ish the  end  of  each  chip.  Then  finish  the  chip  by 
turning  the  spindle  cone  slowly  forward,  by  pull- 
ing on  the  belt  by  hand. 

6.  In  removing  a  threaded  piece  from  the  lathe 
for  testing  the  thread,  never  detach  the  dog 
from  this  piece.  Do  not  even  change  the  position 
of  the  dog.  Always  mark  the  slot  in  the  face  plate 
in  which  the  dog  was  iilaced,  while  the  thread  is 
being  cut.  Replace  the  tail  of  the  dog  in  the  same 
slot,  when  you  put  the  job  back  on  centers  to  re- 
new the  thread  cutting.  For  testing  thread,  see 
instructions  in  .loh  9. 


3" 
138 


3'- 10    Thread)      H  H    US  S 
4 
for   Caye    Hardened    Hexafon  hlui  Nc  45 


Job    No.  8 

Matarial  -  Mild   Steel. 

No.  Pieces    Heijutrad  -  I 


DRflWINa  N0.I3I-B  PART   No.    31 


SPINDLE 


Scale iNorK  to  figures 


SOUTH  BEND     LflTHE     WOHXS. 


South     Bend     Lathe     Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  Xo.  9.     Part  No.  31.     Drawind  No.  131-G. 


1.  ilATERIAL.  For  Job  No.  9  we  use  the 
spindle  machined  in  Job  No.  S.  We  are  to  cut  a 
%"xlO  U.  S.  Standard  Thread,  left  hand,  on  the 
other  end  of  spindle.  For  cutting  this  thread,  we 
use  the  same  arrangement  of  gearing  as  we  did  for 
cutting  the  thread  in  Job  No.  8. 

•2.  CUTTING  LEFT  HAND  THREAD.  Do 
not  let  the  screw  of  the  dog  come  in  contact  with 
the  thread,  but  select  an  old  nut  %"  x  10"  right 
hand  thread.  With  a  hand  hack  saw,  split  one 
side  of  the  nut  through  into  the  hole,  and  half  way 
into  the  other  side.  Then  place  this  nut  on  the 
threaded  end  of  shaft  and  fasten  securely  with  a 
clamp  dog.  In  this  manner  we  can  drive  the 
threaded  shaft  without  injuring  the  thread. 

3.  THREAD  TOOL.  Use  the  same  thread  tool 
and  set  in  the  same  manner  as  vou  did  in  Job 
No.  8. 

4.  LENGTH  OF  THREAD.  Drill  a  hole  about 
tn"  in  diameter,  and  about  ,',("  deep,  1%"  from  the 
end  of  the  spindle.  This  hole  will  be  the  starting 
point  of  each  chip  in  cutting  the  left  hand  thread. 
Adjust  the  reverse  lever  in  the  head  stock,  so  that 
when  the  split  nut  is  clamped  on  the  lead  screw 
and  the  shipper  rod  is  thrown  forward  toward  the 
head  end  of  the  lathe,  the  spindle  cone  of  lathe 
will  revolve,   the   top   of  the  cone   rotating   in   the 


direction  of  the  operator, 
feed  from  left  to  right. 


Then  the  carriage  should 


5.  CUTTING  THE  THREAD.  Set  your  thread 
tool  and  use  the  adjustable  stop  exactly  as  you  did 
in  Job  No.  8,  and  proceed  with  the  first  chip.  The 
carriage  will  now  move  to  the  right  instead  of  the 
left,  and  when  the  thread  tool  reaches  a  point  at 
least  Vg"  beyond  the  end  of  spindle,  reverse  the 
shipper  rod.  This  will  reverse  the  direction  of 
travel  of  the  carriage  until  the  thread  tool  reaches 
the  hole  or  starting  point.  Then  arrange  for  depth 
of  second  chip.  Start  in  carefully,  taking  a  light 
chip.  Continue  this  operation  until  the  thread  is 
finished.  Use  plenty  of  oil  on  the  thread  tool: 
lard  oil  is  preferred. 

(i.  TESTING  THE  THREAD.  Use  the  nut  in- 
tended for  the  threaded  part  as  a  gauge.  When 
you  think  the  thread  about  finished,  remove  the 
spindle  from  centers,  and  try  the  nut  on  thread. 
Do  not  strain  the  thread,  the  nut  should  go  on  half 
of  its  depth  with  very  little  pressure.  Examine  the 
thread  after  you  remove  the  nut.  to  see  if  the 
thread  has  a  perfect  bearing. 

When  the  thread  is  cut  on  both  ends  of  the 
spindle,  chamfer  off  the  ends  as  shown  in  drawing. 


(35 


-1-JO  Threads     L.H     U.SS. 
A- 


for  Case  Hardened   Hexagon   Nut    No.  46. 


Dr.ll     g 

for  Set  Scren   Ho  48. 


Job   No.  9 

Material  -  Mild   Steel. 

No.  Pieces    Required  -  I 


DnnwiNG  N0.131-C  PaHT  No.  31 


SPIK/DLC 


Scale WorK  to  figures. 

SOUTH  BEND    LBTHE   iVOnKS. 


South   Bend  Lathe  Works,  South   Bend,   Indiana 


Job  No.  10.     Part  No.  32.     Drawing  No.  132. 


1.  JOB.  A  cast  iron  pulley  is  to  be  iiiacliined 
to  the  dimensions  as  sliown  on  drawing. 

2.  CHUCKING  OPERATION.  Attach  a  6", 
3-jaw  Universal  Geared  Scroll  Chuck  to  the  spin- 
dle nose  of  lathe,  and  fasten  the  casting  in  the 
chuck.     (See  explanation  drawing  Fig.  K,  page  58.) 

S.  FACI.VG.  ITse  a  round  nose  tool,  and  face 
the  end  of  pulley  to  the  depth  of  about  ,',;"  below 
scale. 

4.  CENTERING.  Place  a  centering  tool  in 
the  tool  post,  and  locate  the  center  of  the  pulley, 
adjusting  the  tool  so  that  it  is  ajiproximately  at  the 
center.  Take  a  light  chip,  moving  the  tool  so  that 
when  it  begins  to  cut,  it  will  show  the  exact  cen- 
ter, and  will  machine  a  countersunk  hole  about  %" 
deep.  ( See  drawing.  Section  7S,  page  aS,  Lathe 
Book.)  The  hole  in  this  pulley  could  have  been 
cored  but  we  left  the  casting  solid,  for  practice. 

5.  DRILLING.  Use  a  1"  Straight  Shank  Twist 
Drill,  held  by  a  drill  chuck  in  tail  s|iindle.  Drill  a 
hole  through  the  pulley,  feeding  by  hand  wheel  of 
tailstock. 

6.  BORING.  With  a  boring  tool,  take  a  chip 
about  1/32"  through  the  pulley,  or  deep  enough  to 
true  up  the  hole.  Follow  with  another  finishing 
chip  about  1/64"  deep.  Then  follow  with  a  ream- 
er, reaming  the  hole  to  size.     It  should   be  borne 


in  mind  that  this  pulley  is  to  lit  the  spindle.     I  See 
Job  No.  9. 1 

7.  FINISH  ON  ARBOR.  Remove  the  pulley 
from  the  chuck,  and  press  it  on  to  a  I'-s"  arbor:  the 
arbor  entering  the  hole  at  the  machined  end  of 
pulley.  Place  a  drop  of  oil  or  grease  on  the  arbor, 
and  spread  it  thoroughly  with  the  hand,  so  when 
the  pulley  is  machined,  the  arbor  may  be  pressed 
out  easily.  Never  place  a  steel  arbor  into  a  cast 
iron  piece,  unless  either  the  hole  or  the  arbor  has 
been  oiled  slightly,  because  if  it  has  not  been  lu- 
bricated, the  pulley  is  liable  to  cut  when  driving  it 
off  the  arbor. 

8.  Attach  a  dog  and  place  the  job  on  centers. 
(  See  drawing  Figure  "V,"  page  "iT,  Pulley  on  Arbor.) 
Take  a  roughing  cut  over  the  diameter  of  pulley, 
and  face  up  both  ends  to  the  proper  dimensions. 

9.  TURNING  TAPER.  Set  the  tailstock  off 
center,  to  get  the  required  taper  or  crown  of  pul- 
ley. (See  Section  46  of  Lathe  Book.)  After  re- 
quired taper  is  found,  take  a  chip  off  of  one  end. 
Then  remove  the  dog,  and  place  it  on  the  opposite 
end  of  the  arbor.  Place  the  job  back  on  cen- 
ters, and  take  a  chip  on  this  end.  Repeat  the  oper- 
ation until  the  pulley  is  machined  to  the  proper 
dimensions. 


Tap    drill    ,j 

Tap   g  -  16  Threads 

for   Headhi3    Set   Scren 


Job    No    10 
Material  -  C aaf  Iron. 
No   Pieces   Hetfuired  -  J 


DRflVVII^i;  No  /3Z\  P»FIT   No  3Z 


SPINDLE       PULLEY 


Scale Worn  to  tiqures. 

SOUTH    BEt^D     LATHE     WOnriS 


South     Bend     Lathe     Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  11.     Part  No.  .39.     Drawing  No.  139. 


1 .  Mount  a  6",  3-jaw  Universal  Geared  Scroll 
Chuck  on  the  lathe.  Fasten  the  flange  casting  in 
chuck,  gripping  it  Ijy  the  small  shoulder.  (See  il- 
lustration Figure  "S,"  page  57.)  Be  sure  to  see 
that  the  flange  runs  true,  not  only  on  the  outside 
diameter,  but  the  hole  should  also  run  true.  If 
the  hole  is  not  concentric  with  the  outside  diame- 
ter of  the  flange,  then  measure  the  amount  of  stock 
to  be  removed  from  hole,  and  the  amount  of  stock 
fi-om  the  outside  diameter  of  the  flange,  and  adjust 
the  chuck  so  that  both  the  hole  and  outside  diame- 
ter can  be  machined  true  in  the  same  chucking. 

When  the  flange  runs  true  in  the  chuck,  with  a 
round  nose  tool,  take  a  roughing  chip  on  face  of 
flange;  then  a  finishing  chip.  Then  a  slight  rough- 
ing chip  on  large  diameter  of  flange,  and  a  finish- 
ing chip.  Adjust  round  nose  tool  and  take  a  recess- 
ing chip  on  face  of  flange.  (See  Figure  "S,"  page 
57,  Tool  "B.")  Place  a  boring  tool  in  the  tool  post 
(see  Tool  "C")  raid  take  a  roughing  chip  through 
hole;  then  a  finishing  chip,  until  within  1/64"  of 
size.    Then  finish  with  a  %"  Standard  Reamer. 

2.  TURNING  FLANGE  ON  ARBOR.  Remove 
flange  from  the  chuck,  and  press  it  tightly  on  a  %" 


arbor.  Attach  a  dog  to  the  arbor,  and  place  the 
job  on  centers.  Set  the  compound  rest  on  an  angle 
of  IJi-degrees.  (See  illustration  Figure  "H,"  page 
57.)  Use  a  tool  having  a  very  small  round  nose, 
and  take  a  roughing  chip  on  the  angle  part  of 
flange;  then  a  roughing  chip  on  the  diameter  of 
flange  and  hub;  then  a  finishing  chip  on  both 
flange  and  hub.  With  a  side  tool,  face  the  small 
hub  and  inside  of  flange. 

:$.  FILING  AND  POLISHING.  Allow  the  job 
to  remain  on  centers,  and  release  the  tail  stock 
center  slightly,  so  the  arbor  will  run  perfectly 
free.  Put  a  drop  of  oil  on  the  tail  center  point. 
Run  the  lathe  spindle  at  next  to  the  highest  speed, 
and  with  a  mill  file,  smooth  up  carefully  the  out- 
side diameter,  the  angle  surface,  and  the  small  hub 
of  flange.  You  may  round  the  corners  slightly, 
but  not  the  corner  of  the  large  diameter  of  the 
face  of  flange. 

To  polish  a  piece  of  cast  iron  in  the  lathe,  take 
a  strip  of  emery  cloth  about  the  width  of  a  file,  put 
a  few  drops  of  oil  on  the  cloth.  Then  holding  the 
cloth  against  the  file,  polish  the  flange  while  it  is 
revolving.  Keep  plenty  of  oil  on  the  emery  cloth. 
This  will  produce  a  fine,  polished  surface,  and  the 
oil  will  prevent  rusting. 


34 


Job    No   11 
Material  -  Cast  Iron 
No   Pieces    Required 


OUTSIDE     F  LUNGE. 


Scale ^.Worh  to  figures 

SOUTH    BEND     LHTHEl    WORKS. 


South     Bend     Lathe      Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  12.     Part  No.  :|S.     Drawing  No.  138. 


For  machining  Job  No.  12  follow  instructions 
given  in  Job  No.  11.  except  that  the  flange  angle  on 
Job  No.  12  is  10  degrees,  while  Job  No.  11  was  13 
degrees.  Also  note  that  Job  No.  12  has  a  grooved 
hub,  while  the  hul)  on  .lob  No.  11  was  plain. 

When  the  flange  has  been  machined  and  is  still 
on  arbor,  with  a  t\"  round  nose  tool,  machine  a 
groove  ts"  wide  and  about  3^2"  deep,  in  the  center 
of  hub,  as  shown  in  drawing.  The  object  of  this 
groove  is  to  prevent  the  oil  from  the  bearings  from 
running  up  on  the  flange,  while  the  emery  wheel 
is  in  motion.  File  and  iiolish  the  flange  as  de- 
scribed in  Job  No.  1 1. 

After  a  job  has  been  bored  in  a  chuck,  and  then 
placed  on  an  arbor,  all  sui-faces  should  again  be 
machined  if  an  accurate  job  is  I'equired. 

The  inside  flanges  for  the  grinder  spindle 
should  fit  up  close  to  the  shoulders  of  spindle,  so 
that  when  assembled  on  the  spindle  and  placed  in 
the  grinder  head,  there  should  be  a  slight  play  be- 
tween the  hubs  of  the  two  flanges  and  the  outer 
ends  of  bearings  on  head;  that  is,  there  should  be 
a  visible  slight  end  motion,  not  exceeding  1/64". 


Removing  a  Job  front  Arbor 

In  removing  a  job  from  the  arbor,  or  driving 
the  arbor  out  of  the  job,  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  arbor  is  driven  out  of  the  job  from  the 
small  end,  as  one  end  of  all  arbors  or  mandrels  is 
smaller  than  the  other  end.  The  size  of  the  man- 
drel is  usually  marked  on  the  large  end. 

In  driving  a  mandrel  into  or  out  of  a  pulley, 
be  careful  not  to  batter  or  jamb  the  end  of  the 
arbor,  because  if  the  center 
hole  or  outside  diameter  of 
the  arbor  is  battered,  then 
the  arbor  will  not  run  true, 
and  if  the  arbor  does  not  run 
absohitely  true,  you  cannot 
machine  an  accurate  job  on 
it.  A  babbitt  hammer  or  a 
wooden  mallet  would  best 
serve  as  a  driver.  A  small 
cast  iron  anvil,  similar  to  that 
shown  in  Figure  "W"  here- 
with, would  make  an  excel- 
lent anvil  for  arbor  work,  and 
it  will  also  be  found  useful 
for  other  work  in  the  ma- 
chine sho]). 


36 


Job    Nc.  12. 
Materia/ ~  C  ast    Iron 
/Vo.  Pieces    Rrifuirei 


INSIDE     FLANGE 


Scale Work  to  figures. 

SOUTH     BENU      L»TMC     YVORKS. 


SofTH      BExn      Lathe      Works.      South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  13.     Part  Xo.  30.     Drawinq  No.  130. 


1 .  Drawings  on  page  39  show  the  grinder  head 
caps. 

2.  Clean  the  casting  and  remove  all  sand  and 
grit. 

3.  The  six  anchor  holes  "B"  should  be  drilled 
according  to  drawing,  so  that  when  the  babbitt  is 
poured,  it  enters  these  holes,  and  there  forms  an 
anchor  to  hold  the  babbitt  in  the  cap.  Drill  the 
six  anchor  holes  in  each  cap.  also  six  similar 
anchor  holes  for  holding  the  babbitt  for  each  bear- 
ing in  the  grinder  head. 

4.  Locate  the  position  of  the  cap  screw  holes 
for  attaching  caps  to  grinder  head.  Note  that  the 
centers  of  these  holes  are  2Vs"  apart.  Chalk  the 
surface    where  the   holes  are 

to  be  drilled.  Rub  this 
chalked  surface  with  the 
finger,  and  with  the  dividers 
locate  the  centers  of  the  boss 
of  each  hole.  Make  a  prick 
punch  mark  at  each  center, 
and  scribe  a  %"  circle.  Make 
six  prick  punch  marks  en  the 
circumference  of   each  circle, 

(see  drawing  Fig.  "U").  Next  make  a  deep  center 
punch  mark  on  the  center  of  each  circle.  The  cen- 
ter distance  should  be  2%". 


® 


Fiq.  U 


5.  Use  a  %"  drill  in  the  chuck  in  head  spin- 
dle, and  a  drill  pad  in  the  tail  stock.  Let  the  point 
of  the  drill  enter  about  i",;"  in  each  circle.  See  if 
the  hole  is  going  to  be  concentric  with  the  circular 
la.v-out.  If  it  is  not.  then  with  a  prick  punch  drive 
the  center  of  the  hole  in  the  proper  direction  in 
order  to  be  concentric.  Remove  a  little  more 
stock  with  the  drill,  and  test  again.  When  the 
drill  hole  is  concentric  with  the  lay-out,  drill  both 
holes.  Now  with  a  counterbore,  having  a  %" 
pilot,  remove  j^"  stock,  so  that  the  head  of  the 
cap  screw  w-ill  rest  on  a  machined  surface. 

6.  Locate  the  hole  in  the  top  of  cap  for  oil 
cup.  This  hole  should  be  in  about  the  center  of 
the  boss.    Use  a  17/64"  drill. 

Do  not  tap  the  oil  hole  at  this  time,  because  it 
is  through  this  hole  that  the  babbitt  is  poured. 
After  babbitt  is  poured,  then  redrill  this  hole,  re- 
moving the  babbitt,  and  tap  for  oil  cup. 

7.  Some  of  the  holes  drilled  in  grinder  and 
cap  could  perhaps  be  done  to  better  advantage  on 
a  drill  press.  Our  instructions  are  to  drill  these 
parts  in  the  lathe,  assuming  that  there  is  no  drill 
press  in  the  shop  equipment. 


3S 


South      Bend      Lathe      Works,      South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  11.     Part  No.  29.     Drawins  Xo.  129. 


1.  The  drawing  on  page  41  shows  three 
views  of  the  grinder  head  casting,  also  an  en- 
larged view  of  one  of  the  boxes,  or  bearings. 

2.  Clean  the  casting  thoroughly.  Remove  all 
sand,  gates  and  sprues,  inside  as  well  as  outside. 

3.  To  drill  the  necessary  holes  in  the  grinder 
head,  for  lag  screws  to  hold  the  grinder  to  the 
bench,  and  holes  for  safety  guards,  make  a  jig  of 
wood,  similar  to  that  shown  in  drawing  Figure 
"P,"  page  .56.  This  jig  should  be  about  12"  long. 
Let  it  rest  on  two  strips  of  wood,  each  about  2  feet 
long,  so  they  will  rest  on  the  front  and  rear  of 
lathe  saddle. 

4.  The  caps  machined  in  Job  Xo.  1.3  should 
now  be  fitted  to  the  grinder  head.  Chalk  the  top 
of  the  grindei-  head  where  the  holes  are  to  be 
drilled  for  cap  screws.  Hold  or  clamp  the  cap 
firmly  to  the  head,  and  with  a  scratch-awl  mark 
through  the  holes  in  cap  and  locate  the  position  of 
the  holes  on  grinder  head.  When  one  hole  has 
been  located  for  each  cap,  remove  the  caps,  lay  out 
these  holes  with  six  prick  punch  marks  on  the 
circle,  find  the  center  of  the  circle,  as  per  drawing 
page  3S,  and  make  a  deep  punch  mark  at  this  cen- 
ter. Then  mark  the  right  hand  cap  and  right  hand 
box  with  a  prick  i)unch,  so  you  can  replace  cap  on 


its  own  bearing  each  time.    Also  make  two  center 
])unch  marks  on  the  front  on  the  other  cap  and  box. 

5.  Use  a  fj."  drill.  Drill  only  one  hole  in  each 
bearing.  Tap  the  holes  and  fasten  each  cap  with 
one  screw.  Then  with  a  %"  drill,  using  the  hole 
in  the  cap  as  a  jig,  spot  the  other  hole  for  each 
cap  in  the  grinder  head,  letting  the  point  of  the 
drill  enter  the  casting  only  about  ,'„".  Now  re- 
move both  caps,  and  with  a  f.."  drill,  finish  both 
holes.    Tap  both  holes  and  attach  both  caps. 

(J.  When  the  caps  are  attached,  see  that  they 
fit  nicely  on  the  grinder  head.  They  should  not 
lap  over,  neither  on  the  sides  nor  ends.  If  they 
do,  remove  the  lap  with  a  file. 

7.  If  more  than  one  grinder  at  a  time  is  being 
made,  number  each  cap  and  each  bearing  in  serial, 
so  you  can  attach  each  cap  to  its  own  bearing. 

8.  Locate  the  position  of  holes  through  which 
grinder  is  clamped  to  the  bench,  and  drill  them, 
(see  drawing  Fig.  P,  page  .5i5).  The  position  of  the 
holes  for  safety  guards  can  not  be  located  until 
grinder  is  complete  and  the  emery  wheels  attached. 
Then  place  the  safety  guards  in  position,  so  they 
fit  properly  over  the  emery  wheels,  and  mark 
through  the  slots  of  the  base. 


ENLffOaZD  VIEW  OF BE/tniNC  BKBBITrCD 


South   Bend  Lathe   Works,  South   Bend,   Indiana 


Job  No.  10.     Part  No.  Special. 


Job  No.  Ifi  drawing  shows  the  small  parts  that  we 
use  in  the  babbitting  jig,  which  is  described  in  Job 
Xo.  17. 

Make  lour  shims  of  cardboard,  -}r,"  thick.  I  See 
drawing  on  opposite  page.)  One  of  these  shims  is 
placed  under  each  side  of  each  cap  to  allow  for 
wear,  because  after  two  or  three  years,  when  the 
spindle  bearings  wear,  these  shims  are  removed 
and  thinner  shims  are  inserted  to  take  up  the 
wear.  The  shims  as  shown  do  not  indicate  the 
holes  for  the  screws.  This  is  because  we  first  use 
these  shims  as  part  of  the  babbitting  jig,  and 
afterward  we  cut  the  hole  for  the  screw  and  use 
the  shims  in  the  grinder. 

One  of  these  shims  shows  an  opening  on  one 
side,  through  which  the  babbitt  is  poured,  as  e.x- 
plained  later. 

The  four  cast  iron  collars  shown  are  bored  to 
1"  and  faced  on  one  end.  They  are  also  recessed 
r,'^"  deep,  1|',;"  diameter.  The  object  of  this  re- 
cess is  that  when  babbitt  is  jioured,  it  will  fill  into 
this  space,  which  will  allow  it  to  project  g'j"  be- 
yond the  bearing. 

The  1"  cold  rolled  shaft,  shown  in  drawing  is 
what  we  call  the  babbitting  bar.  This  shaft 
should  be  straight  and  true.  It  should  be  1"  in 
diameter,  not  .01)1"  ovei-  or  .Oii2"  less. 


In  placing  this  shaft  in  the  babbitting  jig,  the 
center  of  shaft  should  be  about  l/ti4"  higher  than 
the  top  of  the  bearing  of  grinder  head.  The  reason 
is  that  the  shim  is  ^:,"  thick,  therefore  when  the 
grinder  spindle  is  fitted  to  the  bearing,  the  center 
or  a.xis  of  the  spindle  will  be  in  line  with  the  cen- 
ter of  the  shim. 

Scraping  the  Boxes 

After  the  bearings  in  grinder  head  have  been 
babbitted,  the  bearings  of  the  spindle  being  finished, 
place  some  red  lead  on  the  spindle  bearings,  and 
put  the  spindle  in  the  grinder  head;  revolving  it 
slowly  by  hand.  This  will  show  the  high  spots. 
Then  with  a  scraper,  using  a  halt  round  file, 
ground  smooth  and  with  a  cutting  edge,  scrape 
the  high  spots  until  the  spindle  has  a  thorough 
bearing. 

This  scraping  should  be  done  before  the  grind- 
er caps  are  babbitted.  After  the  grinder  caps  are 
babbitted,  they  should  be  tested  and  scraped  in  the 
same  manner. 

In  babbitting  a  large  bearing,  we  usually  paint 
the  babbitting  shaft  with  graphite,  in  paste  form, 
but  the  bearings  of  this  grinder  are  small,  and 
will  not  need  a  coat  of  graphite. 


Tap  drill  f^  '  Tap  g  •  16  Thds 
for   Headless  Set   Screw. 


-Cast  Iron 


32 

/■ 

2, 

-.1  _  . 

7' 

16 
1 — r^  ■ 

T 

/pnll  -; 

* 

L 

Fibre  Sf 

32 

16 

32 

h     ^ 

-  9  R 


1       X 

32  32 


-Co/d  fl£>//ei^  5/fe/. 


Joi   No  IS 


Dnn\NING  /Vo  206    PMRTNo  Special 


DETAILS  OF  BflBBlTTING  JIG. 


Scale Work    to  figures 

SOUTH  BENB      LATHE     WORKS- 


South      Bend     Lathe      Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  17.     Babbitting  Jiq. 


Make  a  wood  frame,  as  shown  on  opposite 
drawing  Figure  "X."  Make  it  large  enough  so 
that  the  grinder  frame  can  be  easily  placed  inside. 

Place  the  grinder  head  in  the  wooden  frame 
and  place  babbitting  shaft  on  the  V  ways.  Shim 
up  under  grinder  head  with  cardboard  shims  "BB," 
until  the  grinder  bearings  are  concentric  and  paral- 
lel to  the  babbitting  shaft.  The  top  of  the  grinder 
bearings  should  be  1/G4"  below  the  center  of  the 
babbitting  shaft.  Now  clamp  the  grinder  head  to 
the  wood  frame.  Measure  again  to  see  that  the 
bearing  space  of  the  grinder  head  is  concentric 
and  parallel  with  the  shaft  at  both  ends.  Remove 
the  shaft  and  place  on  it  the  four  adjustable  col- 
lars, setting  each  collar  as  close  up  to  the  bear- 
ings as  possible.  The  dimensions  are  shown  on 
drawing.  Now  with  a  piece  of  wood,  plug  up  the 
four  cap  screw  holes  on  grinder  head.  Place  the 
four  cardboard  shims  on  top  of  bearings,  so  they 
will  fit  tight  up  against  the  shaft  and  inside  both 
collars.  Fasten  each  shim  to  the  wood  plug  with 
a  tack.  With  a  piece  of  clay  or  putty,  make  a 
ringed  dam  "E."  as  shown,  between  tlie  ends  of 
bearings  and  collars.  These  dams  are  merely  to 
prevent  the  babbitt  from  running  out  of  the  mould. 

If  the  babbitt  has  a  tendency  to  run  out  of  the 
mould  at  any  point,  simply  make  a  dam  to  prevent 
it.  .Make  another  dam  "F"  on  the  top  of  shim. 
(See  Figure  "X"  also  Plan  View.  I      This  dam  laps 


over  on  to  the  shaft.  It  is  through  this  dam, 
through  the  hole  "G"  that  the  babbitt  is  poured  to 
fill  the  bottom  bearing. 

Before  pouring  the  mould  see  that  the  babbitt 
is  hot,  not  red  hot.  but  hot  enough  to  singe  or 
scorch  a  pine  stick,  ilake  a  test  by  immersing  the 
stick  into  the  molten  babbitt.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  small  anchor  holes  in  the  bearings  of  the 
mold,  and  if  the  metal  is  of  the  right  temperature, 
it  will  flow  readily  and  fill  every  crevice  and 
anchor  in  the  mould.  If  the  babbitt  does  not  fill 
the  mould  perfectly,  the  babbitt  was  not  hot 
enough.  In  this  case  remove  the  babbitt  and  pour 
again.  Do  not  attempt  to  pour  both  boxes  with 
one  ladle  of  babbitt  as  the  metal  cools  quickly. 
Get  a  fresh  supply  in  ladle  for  each  box. 

When  both  lower  boxes  have  been  babbitted, 
place  new  shims  on  all  the  bearings  and  attach 
the  caps,  screwing  them  down  tight  on  the  shims. 
Dam  up  between  the  ends  of  caps  and  collars. 
( See  Figure  "Y.")  Now  make  a  center  dam  "N" 
over  this  hole.  When  both  caps  are  babbitted,  re- 
move the  dam.  placing  a  dog  on  the  end  of  the 
babbitting  shaft.  Loosen  the  set  screws  in  each 
collar  and  remove  the  shaft  by  a  pulling,  twisting 
movement.    .\'ow  ti'im  up  the  ends  of  each  box. 

For  sci'aping  boxes,  see  page  42. 


B        E         r      6  £  G         C  E        B 


in  u  n  rt  /y  u 


BABBITTING   JIG 
JOB  No.  17 

SOUTH  BEND  LATHE  WORKS 


Plan  VieuJ  %.  X 


Enlarged  Section  of  F  ' 


P/an  Vieiu   Fiq.  Y 


M      K       N      M 


rig.   X 


End  View  Fi^.  X 


South     Bexd     Lathe      Works.     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  15.     Part  No.  30. 


1.  DRILUXG  HOLES  FOR  REST  BRACK- 
ETS. Place  the  grimier  head  on  two  wooden 
cleats  on  top  of  saddle,  one  end  ot  the  cored  hole  on 
the  head  center  and  the  other  end  on  the  tail  cen- 
ter of  lathe,  thus  lining  up  the  cored  hole,  shim  up 
under  the  grinder  head,  if  necessary.  Clamii 
grinder  head  to  saddle  if  you  wish.  Now  remove 
head  center,  and  with  a  47/64"  drill  in  chuck  {see 
drawing),  start  drilling.  The  drill  should  revolve 
slowly.  With  the  right  hand  feeding  by  hand 
wheel  of  tail  stock  and  the  left  hand  operating  the 
carriage  wheel  and  the  tail  center  still  in  cored 
hole,  drill  three-quarter  way  through  the  casting. 
Now  replace  the  tail  center  with  a  drill  pad.  a 
piece  of  wood  between  drill  pad  and  grinder,  finish 
drilling  the  hole.  Then  size  the  hole  with  a  %" 
standard  reamei-.  .Machine  the  other  hole  in  the 
same  way. 

The  two  small  side  holes,  through  which  set 
screws  pass  to  fasten  the  bracket,  may  be  drilled 
by  using  the  same  cleats  as  for  drilling  the  bracket 
holes. 


bracket  hole,  using  the  tail  stock  wheel  to  teed, 
holding  the  grinder  casting  with  the  left  hand. 
When  the  hole  is  drilled,  reverse  position  of  the 
grinder  casting,  and  drill  a  similar  hole  in  the  oppo- 
site end  of  casting. 

Xow  tap  the  holes  with  a  %",  Ifi-thread,  right 
hand  U.  S.  Standard  Tap,  running  through  first 
with  a  taper  tap,  and  finishing  with  a  plug  tap, 
using  a  hand  tap  wrench. 


It  will  not  be  necessary,  in  drilling  these  holes, 
to  clamp  the  casting  to  the  lathe  carriage.  Sim- 
ply turn  the  grinder  head  around,  place  a  fg"  drill 
in  the  chuck,  lay  out  the  position  of  the  hole  in  the 
end  of  boss  nn  casting,  and  drill  through  into  the 


For  castings  and  material  in  the  rough,  also 
supplies,  etc.,  for  building  the  S-inch  Bench 
Emery  Grinder,  see  page  5o. 


South      Bend      Lathe      Works.      Soi'th      B  io  n  n,      I  x  u  i  a  .\  a 


Job  No.  18.     Part  Xo.  l.>  and  Hi.     Drawinii  No.  1  H). 


To  make  a  nut,  secure  a  piece  of  cold  drawn 
hexagon  steel,  1%"  across  the  tlats.  Place  this 
material  in  a  3-Jaw  Universal  Geared  Scroll  Chuck, 
letting  it  extend  far  enough  from  the  chuck  so  that 
two  nuts  can  be  made  in  one  chucking. 

Face  the  end  of  the  material,  locate  the  center, 
then  with  a  %"  drill  in  the  tail  stock  of  chuck, 
bore  a  hole  for  a  depth  of  two  nuts.  Tlien  cham- 
fer the  end,  and  with  a  cutting-oft  tool,  cut  the  nut 
the  desired  length.  Repeat  this  operation  on  the 
second  nut.  Then  place  the  nut  back  in  the  chuck, 
and  with  a  %",  10-thread  right  hand  V.  S.  Stand- 
ard Taper  Tap,  held  on  tail  centers  by  a  monke.v 
wrench,  let  the  end  of  this  tap  enter  the  hole  of 
the  nut.  (See  drawing  Figure  "E,"  page  .58.)  t'se 
plenty  of  oil  on  the  tap.  Then  with  the  right  hand 
feeding  the  ta|),  and  the  left  hand  pulling  the 
belt,  slowly  feed  the  tap  through  the  nut.  Using 
the  grinder  spindle  as  an  arbor  on  centers,  face 
the  nuts  true  on  both  ends. 

Perhaps  it  would  be  much  better  to  buy  these 
nuts,  rather  than  make  them.  The  %"  right  hand 
nut  can  be  purchased  from  the  hardware  store,  and 
perhaps  the  %"  left  hand  nut  also.  If  not,  we  can 
furnish  them,  finished  complete  and  hardeneil,  at 
a  nominal  jirice. 


Tafi  drill  g-Tapj-IOTh'ds  U.SS   L  H 


^  Tapdnll   l-Tap  j-IOTh'Js  US  5     R  H 


Job  No.  18 

Mafrnal-Mild  Stre/.  .   ^^     , 
^c  Firces  T^rou'rcd  -^   pffcA 


Dni^^isQ    No.i46\paRrNo45f4& 


RfL  H.SPINULE  HEXKHON    NUT. 


Scalf 


VJorK   to  figures 


50UTH  BC.'iD    Lf^THE    noHHS. 


South      B  e  ^-  u      Lathe      Works,      South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  27.     Part  No.  107.     Drawing  No.  207 


1.  JIATERIAL.  A  l.athe  Mandrel  is  usually 
made  of  crucible  or  tool  steel,  so  it  may  be  hard- 
ened and  tempered  all  over.  However,  (or  large 
mandrels,  mild  steel  may  be  used  instead  of  cru- 
cible, especially  when  an  arbor  is  over  %"  di- 
ameter, not  excessive  in  length,  and  where  it  i.^; 
not  subjected  to  rough,  heavy  work.  If  carbon 
steel  cannot  be  secured  easily,  we  can  use  mild 
steel  with  good  results. 

Select  a  piece  of  mild  steel,  TVs"  long.  Cen- 
ter both  ends,  place  on  centers  and  face  both 
ends.  Take  a  roughing  chip  over  the  entire 
diameter.  With  a  facing  tool  on  an  angle,  recess 
both  ends  of  the  arbor  to  a  depth  of  1/32".  Let 
this  recess  extend  about  V2"  in  diameter.  The  ob- 
ject of  this  recess  is  that  in  driving  a  pulley  or 
ring  on  to  the  arbor,  or  driving  the  arbor  out  of 
this  pulley  or  ring,  when  the  mallet  comes  in  con- 
tact with  the  end  of  the  arbor,  it  will  not  jamb  or 
destroy  the  center  hole. 

Xow  reduce  the  diameter  for  a  distance  of  %" 
on  each  end,  as  shown.  The  object  of  this  reduc- 
tion is  to  have  a  suitable  place  to  attach  the  driving 
dog.     Then  file  a  flat  place  on  both  shoulders  for 


the  dog  set  screw  to  screw  against.  Xow  harden 
and  temper  the  mandrel  all  over.  If  the  material  is 
crucible  steel,  for  hardening  and  tempering  follow 
instructions  shown  in  section  62,  page  46,  of  Lathe 
Book.  If  the  arbor  is  made  of  mild  steel,  case 
harden  both  ends  only  as  far  as  the  shoulders. 
Follow  instructions  shown  in  section  64,  page  46, 
of  Lathe  Book. 

The  mandrel  has  a  slight  taper,  the  small  end 
of  the  fitting  surface,  finishing  .001"  under  the 
standard  dimensions  —  1%";  while  the  other  end 
finishes  .002"  above  the  standard  dimensions. 
Therefore  there  is  a  difference  of  .003"  on  the  fit- 
ting diameter  of  the  arbor,  on  a  length  of  5i^". 
This  is  to  allow  a  piece  to  be  driven  off  and  on  an 
arbor  easily,  and  always  from  the  same  end. 

Where  arbors  or  lathe  mandrels  are  made  in 
quantity,  the  fitting  diameter  is  finished  by  grind- 
ing; the  mandrels  are  placed  on  centers  in  a  s|)e- 
cial  grinding  machine,  and  revolve  slowly,  and  are 
finished  by  a  swiftly  revolving  emery  wheel.  A 
mild  steel  mandrel  can,  however,  be  finished  very 
accurately  by  turning,  and  then  filing  and  polish- 
ing with  emery  cloth.  It  requires  care  and  accur- 
ate measurement  with  a  micrometer  caliper. 


48 


Job    /Vo.  27 

Material  -  Carhon  Steel. 

1^0-  Pieces   Recfu/red  -  1 


D»finme  No.  Z07\  PnRT  No.  107 


Li 


INCH   MANDREL 


Scale Worii  to  fijitrrs 


SOUTH  BE.ND    LflTHC     kV0fiA5. 


South     Bend     Lathe     Works,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Job  No.  30.     Part  No.  109.     Drawing  No.  209. 


1.  MACHIXIXG  CHUCK  PLATE.  The  draw- 
ing on  the  ojiposite  page  describes  a  cliuck  plate, 
required  in  fitting  a  lathe  chuck  to  a  lathe.  Tliis 
chuck  plate  is  to  be  bored  and  threaded  to  fit  the 
spindle  nose  of  the  15"  South  Bend  Lathe.  The 
diameter  "A"  is  to  fit  the  recess  in  the  back  of 
chuck. 

If  there  is  only  one  lathe  in  the  shop,  and 
chuck  is  to  be  fitted  to  this  lathe,  then  it  would 
be  necessary  to  swing  the  chuck  plate  on  the  large 
face  plate.  (See  face  plate  .iob,  page  5S.)  Be- 
fore (•lamping  chuck  plate  to  face  plate  securely, 
bring  the  tail  stock  center  up,  and  the  tail  center 
will  tend  to  center  the  chuck  plate.  Now  revolve 
the  lathe  slowly,  and  hold  a  piece  of  chalk  to  the 
hub  of  the  chuck  ])late,  until  it  runs  true;  then 
clamp  securely  to  the  face  plate. 

Take  a  chip  on  the  face  of  the  hub,  and  with  a 
boring  tool  bore  to  the  proper  diameter,  which  is 
the  bottom  of  the  thread  on  spindle  nose.  JIachine 
the  recess  to  a  diameter  slightly  in  excess  of  the 
unthreaded  diameter  of  spindle  nose. 

3.  THREADING.  Set  the  Threading  Tool  (as 
shown  in  Figure  16,  page  30,  of  book  "How  to  Run 
a  Lathe").  Set  the  ad.iustable  stop  to  depth  of 
thread  and  proceed  with  the  thread  cutting,  taking 
light  chips.  WTien  you  think  the  proper  depth  of 
thread  has  been  reached,  unscrew  the  face  plate. 


and  without  disturbing  the  chuck  plate  on  the  face 
plate,  try  the  threaded  part  of  the  chuck  plate  on 
the  spindle  nose.  If  the  chuck  plate  will  not  screw 
on  spindle,  take  another  chip  and  repeat  this  oper- 
ation until  the  chuck  plate  screws  snugly  on  the 
spindle  nose. 

Chuck  plate  being  fitted,  remove  it  from  the 
face  plate,  screw  it  on  to  spindle  nose  firmly  up 
against  the  shoulder.  Put  a  couple  drops  of  oil  on 
threaded  part  of  chuck  plate,  before  screwing  it  on 
spindle  nose.  Then  machine  the  diameter  "A"  to 
fit  the  recess  of  the  chuck  to  be  fitted.  Use  care  in 
making  this  fit.  Round  the  corners  slightly  with  a 
file,  on  the  face  of  diameter  "A,"  where  the  bottom 
fits  into  the  chuck  recess. 

When  this  fit  is  properly  made,  then  place  some 
red  lead  or  chalk  on  the  bottom  of  the  entire  recess 
of  the  chuck.  Now  press  the  chuck  plate  into  re- 
cess. Wake  a  center  punch  mark  on  the  chuck 
plate  and  on  the  chuck,  so  that  you  will  know  the 
position  to  replace  the  chuck  plate  after  holes  are 
drilled.  Rap  chuck  plate  several  times  with  a 
wooden  mallet.  Remove  the  chuck  plate,  and  you 
will  find  indicated  the  proper  position  of  the  holes 
through  which  chuck  screws  pass.  Drill  these 
holes  about  A."  larger  in  diameter  than  the  bolts 
or  screws.  Place  the  chuck  plate  back  in  recess 
of  chuck,  according  to  the  center  punch  marks,  at- 
tach your  screws,  and  chuck  is  fitted  ready  for  use. 


50 


Machine  R-to  AfcfiucK- 


Z4-8  Th^ds 
y^    U.S.S.l^H. 


Job  No.    30. 

Material  -  Cast  Iron 
No.  Pieces  Hei^uirecl-  J 


SfiHwitiS  rJo.209    PHRT  No.  109 


CHUCK  PLATE    /or  15" LRTHE 


Scale V^orH   to  /igures. 

SOUTH  BCND  LRTHE:  tYoffKS. 


South  Bend  Lathe   Wobks,  South   Bend,   Indiana 


Painting  and  Assembling  the  Grinder 


The  grinder  should  be  painted  after  all  machine 
work  has  been  done.  The  castings  have  already 
been  cleaned  of  all  sand,  sprues,  etc.,  before 
machining. 

Before  applying  a  coat  of  paint,  be  sure  that 
all  trace  of  oil  and  grease  has  been  removed  from 
the  grinder  head.  Then  apply  a  coat  of  paint, 
good  quality,  any  color  will  serve.  This  is  what 
we  call  the  priming  coat. 

After  the  priming  coat  is  dry,  apply  a  coat  of 
iron  filler. 

This  filler  comes  prepared  in  a  form  something 
similar  to  a  soft,  wet  clay.  The  tiller  should  be  cut 
with  turpentine  until  it  resembles  a  paste  as  thick 
as  can  be  applied  easily  with  a  brush.  Paint  the 
entire  casting  with  a  coat  of  this  filler,  with  the 
exception  of  the  machined  surfaces.  The  coat  will 
dry  in  from  four  to  ten  hours,  depending  upon 
the  drying  properties  of  the  filler.  When  dry,  rub 
down  w'ith  coarse  sandpaper  in  such  a  manner 
that  you  sand  only  the  high  spots.  Then  apply  an- 
other coat  of  filler.  When  this  is  dry,  sand  again. 
If  you  wish  the  machine  to  look  unusually  nice, 
you  should  apply  at  least  four  coats  of  filler,  and 
sand  after  each  coat. 


After  the  casting  has  been  filled,  apply  a 
coat  of  sealer.  This  may  be  an  oil-proof  paint,  or 
an  enamel.  Enamel  makes  the  best  sealer,  because 
it  is  oil-proof,  and  it  levels  evenly.  The  color  may 
be  black,  dark  blue,  or  dark  green.  When  the  seal- 
er or  oil-proof  coat  of  paint  is  dry.  then  assemble 
the  machine. 

For  painting  the  bracket  heads,  the  angle  and  T 
rests,  follow  the  same  instructions  as  given  for 
painting  the  grinder  head. 

ASSEMBLING.  After  the  painted  parts  are 
dry,  assemble  the  machine.  In  assembling,  place 
the  end  of  the  spindle  having  the  left  hand  nut  on 
the  left  hand  end  of  the  frame.  The  reason  is,  that 
when  the  emery  wheels  are  revolving,  the  nuts 
should  fasten  in  the  direction  of  the  rotation  of  the 
emery  wheel,  because  the  greater  the  speed,  the 
greater  the  tendency  to  tighten  the  nuts,  whereas, 
if  the  direction  of  the  thread  was  reversed,  the 
tendency  would  be  to  loosen  the  nuts. 

When  the  machine  is  assembled  apply  a  finish- 
ing coat  of  velvet  black,  preferably  a  dull  velvet 
shade. 


S  o  T  T  H      Bend      Lathe      Works.      South      Bend,      I  x  d  i  a  n  a 


Safety  Guards  for  Fernery  Wheels 

The  drawing  herewith  shows  safety  guards  tor 
guarding  the  emery  wheels.  These  guards  are 
made  of  malleable  or  cast  iron.  Malleable  iron  is 
recommended. 

The  guards  are  used  in  pairs,  right  and  left. 
There  is  no  difference  in  the  design  or  the  con- 
struction, except  in  the  base.  When  making  the 
pattern,  disconnect  the  pattern  at  the  base,  using 
a  right  and  left  base,  so  that  one  large  pattern 
will  serve  for  the  hoods. 

There  is  no  machine  work  done  on  these 
guards.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  sand  and 
paint  them. 


INFORMATION    ON    EMERY   WHEELS 

1— SOUND  wheels  before  MOUNTING  to  de- 
tect possible  IN.TURY  in  TRANSIT. 
2 — Never  FORCE  wheels  on  spindles 
3 — Use  RELIEVED  flanges  where  possible. 

4— Avoid  UNNECESSARY  tightening  of 
flanges. 

5 — Keep  rest  CLOSE  to  wheel. 

6— Keep  wheels  TRUE. 

7— Keep  BEARINGS  adjusted. 

S — Have  Grinder  on  SOLID  foundation. 


South     Bend     Lathe      Woeks,     South      Bend,      Indiana 


Manufacturing  in  the  School  Shop 


Several  of  the  larger  manual  training  schools 
have  already  started  to  manufacture  in  a  small 
way. 

From  our  experience  in  manufacturing,  we 
know  that  it  is  possible  for  the  manual  training 
schools  to  make  something  of  commercial  value 
in  their  shops,  and  the  time  will  come  when  all 
manual  training  schools  will  require  the  students 
to  work  on  something  useful,  something  that  can 
be  sold,  and  a  sum  can  be  realized  from  the  sale,  at 
least  sufficient  to  cover  the  cost  of  the  materia! 
and  supplies. 

The  Bench  Grinder  illustrated  and  described  in 
this  little  text  book,  is  a  useful  tool.  It  can  be 
made  in  quantity  in  the  school  shop,  and  sold  to 
other  school  shops.  It  can  also  be  sold  to  the 
machinery  trade. 

A  large  machine  shop  equipment  is  not  neces- 
sary for  building  the  S-inch  Bench  Grinder.  The 
entire  work  can  be  done  on  a  1.5"  South  Bend 
Lathe.  If  the  school  equipment  includes  a  drill 
press,  milling  machine  and  shaper,  the  work  can 
be  done  to  better  advantage. 


If  the  grinder  countershaft  is  wanted,  we  can 
supply  the  castings  and  all  parts  in  the  rough,  to- 
gether with  the  necessary  drawings  and  blue  prints 
for  the  machining  of  these  parts.  A  drawing  of 
the  countershaft  may  be  seen  on  page  60. 

We  claim  no  patent  on  this  grinder.  Anyone 
who  wishes  to  make  the  machine  in  part  or  whole, 
has  our  permission.  We  shall  be  glad  to  supply 
them  with  text  books. 

The  work  may  be  divided  into  four  departments 
as  follows:  • 

1.  DRAWING  ROGIM.  The  students  may  make  a 
complete  set  of  drawings,  using  this  text  book 
as  a  guide. 

2.  PATTER.X  ROO.M.  A  complete  set  of  working 
patterns  can  be  made  from  the  above  drawings. 

3.  FOUNDRY  AND  CORE  ROOM.  A  complete 
set  of  cores  and  castings  can  be  made  up  if  the 
school  has  the  necessary  equipment. 

4.  MACHINE  SHOP.  This  text  book  illustrates 
and  describes  in  detail,  the  machining  of  the 
grinder. 


54 


S  o  I' T  II      Bend      Lathe      Works,      S  o  t;  t  ii      K  e  x  d,      Indiana 


Gastinos  and  Supplies  for  S-Inch  Bonch  Emery  (nluder 


For  the  accommodation  of  schools  who  wish  to 
build  the  Tool  Room  Grinder,  and  are  not  in  a 
position  to  make  ])atterns  or  to  secure  the  neces- 
sar.v  castings,  steel,  etc.,  we  shall  be  pleased  to 
supply  all  the  parts  and  material  in  the  rough,  as 
per  the  following  list: 

For  explanation  of  part  numbers  and  names,  see 
drawing,  page  S. 


PART  NO. 

NAME 

23 

Machine  Bolts 

29 

Grinder  Head 

;») 

Caps  (2) 

31 

Spindle 

32 

Spindle  Pulley 

33 

Rest  Brackets.  I.  (2) 

34 

"T"  Rest 

35 

"T"  Rest  Bracket 

3G 

Angle  Rest 

37 

Angle  Rest  Bracket 

38 

Inside  Flanges  (2) 

39 

Outside  Flanges   (2) 

40-41 

Safety  Guard,  R  and  L 

43 

Safety  Guard  Screws  (4) 

45-4G 

Hexagon  Xuts,  R.  &  L.  H.  for  Spindle 

47 

Fillister  Head  Cap  Screws  for  Bearings(4 

48  Headless  Set  Screw  for  Spindle  Pulley 

49  Sq.  Head  Set  Screws  for  Rest  Brackets(6) 

50  Oil  Cups  (2) 

51  Emery  Wheels  (2) 

We  can  also  furnish  parts  and  supplies  as  follows: 
Lathe  Tools 
Lathe  Dogs 
Babbitt  Metal 
Babbitt  Heater 
Babbitt  Ladle 
Shims  for  Babbitting 
Babbitting  Collars,  Rough  or  Finished 
Babbitting  Bar,  Rough  or  Finished 
IVs"  Arbor,  Rough  or  Finished 
%"  Arbor,  Rough  or  Finished 
Semi-Machined  Chuck  Plate 
Chuck  Arbor,  Rough  or  Finished 

A  full  set  of  working  blue  prints,  6V2"  x  9" 


For  prices  of  all  material,  castings,  etc.. 
in  the  rough,  write  for  special  circular  mailed 
free  on  request.  Address  South  Bend  Lathe 
Works,  Grinder  Dept.,  428  E.  Madison  Street, 
South  Bend,  Ind. 


South      Bend     Lathe      Works,     South      Bend,      I^tdiana 


Driving   l>>    a  (tiiiiiiitui  l><»g 


Drilling  in   tiiv   Latlif 


[-'-i: 


lU 


II 


xzhehczizzbC 


r,g.  T 


Cutting  a  Slmnhler 


f/p.  0 


Driving   Uy    a    Clamp    Dog 


56 


S  11  I   I  u      B  I.  .\  1)      L  A  T  II  ]■;      W  o  K  K  s.      Si)  L'  1'  II      B  i:  .\  ii,      I  ,\  u  i  a  .\  a 


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S  O  I-  T  H         B  K  N  I)        L  A    r  il  E        W  O  K  K  S,        S  O  I'  T  H         B  E  X  I».         1  X  IH  A  X  A 


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TTse  of  an  Indicator 


3larhinini:  a   Chiu-k  Jiii> 


A  race  Plate  Job 


Tapping  in  the  f'liuck 


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South      B  e  k  d     Lathe     Works,     S  o  u  t  ir      B  e  m),      I  in  d  i  a  .\  a 


QJ^ 


South  IJi'iid  Milliny  and  Kov-W  av  C'uttiny  AUathiuenl  lor  J^atlics 


The  above  two  half-tones  show  our  improved 
Milling  and  Key-Way  Cutting  Attachment  for 
lathes.  This  attachment  is  very  practical  on  a 
lathe  in  the  slioii  wliere  there  is  no  milling  ma- 
chine or  shaper. 


Tlie  attachment  is  designed  for  South  Bend 
Lathes,  but  it  can  also  be  fitted  by  a  mechanic  to 
lathes  of  other  makes  that  are  equipped  with  com- 
]iound  rest.  This  Milling  and  Key-Way  Cutting 
Atlacliment  is  fully  described  in  South  Bend 
l.athe  Catalog.     Write  for  free  catalog. 


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FIRST  YEAR  LATHE  WORK 


PRICE    10    CENTS 

Coin  or  stamps  accepted. 
Postpaid  to  any  address. 


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We  have  made  the  price  of  this  little  book 
as  low  as  possible,  so  that  each  student  tak- 
ing shop  work  can  afford  to  have  a  copy. 


A  Partial  List  of  Schools  that  are  Usini  South  Bend  Lathes 


v.  S.  MlUtaijr  Academy,  Weet  Point 

CblcaKo  Board  of  Edneatlon 

New  Tork  City  Boaid  ol  Education 

Cnlverslty  of  Chlcaco 

Lawrence  Hlrb  School,  Falmonth, 

Maaa. 
Western  8tate  Normal  School, 

Kalamazoo,  Mich, 
Taller  City,  N.  D.,  Board  of  lEdncatloa 
UnlTersltr  of  minoiii.  Champaign,  lU. 
Tacoma  Public  Blgrh  School,  Tacoma, 

Wash. 
Detroit,  Mich.,  Board  of  Edneatlon 
Vniverslty  of  City  of  Cincinnati 
Boy»  High  School,  Frederick,  Hd. 
V.  a.  School  of  Field  Artillery 
lUlnola  School  for  Deaf,  JacksonvUle, 

III. 
Blue  Island,  lU.,  Board  of  Education 
VirglDla  Polytechnic  Institute, 

Blacksburg,  Va. 
University  of  Utah,  Salt  Lake  City, 

Utah 
Dartmouth  Medical  School,  Nonrteh, 

Vermont 
Oreen  Bay,  Wis.,  Board  of  Education 
Valparaiso  Cnlverslty,  Valparaiso,  Ind. 
Central  High  School,  Onelph,  Canada 
Portland,  Ore.,  Board  of  EdacattoB 
Portland,  Maine  Board  of  Education 
WaTerly,  N.  X.,  Board  of  Education 
University  of  Colorado.  Boulder,  CoL 

L.  f.  MAROT  eo.,  MUTH  »%HO.  INR, 


Kansas  City  Board  of  Education 
University  of  Southern  &Unnesota 
New  Kensington  Borough  High  School, 

Kew  Kensington,  Pa, 
Rice  Institute,  Houston,  Texas 
Harvard  University 
Inland  Stanford  University,  Palo  Alto. 

Calif. 
W.  Va.  Industrial  School  for  Boys, 

Charleston,  W.  Va. 
Miles  Staadlsh  School,  Boston,  Mass. 
Parkman  School,  Boston,  Bfass. 
Arthur  Hill  Trade  School,  Saginaw, 

Midi. 
South  Bend  Hlsh  School,  South  Bend, 

lad. 
Jefferson  School,  Stockton,  CalU, 
Marinette,  Wis.,  Board  of  Education 
University  of  Michigan,  Ann  Arbor, 

Mich. 
Delaware  College,  Newark,  DeL 
School  District  No.  27,  Douglas,  Arlx. 
Janesville  High  School,  JaneerlUe, 

Wis. 
Mann  Vocational  School,  Lowell,  Haaa. 
Van  Wert,  Ohio,  Board  of  Eduoatloa 
State  Normal  School,  Oshkosh,  Wis. 
Manitowoc,  Wis.,  Board  of  Industilal 

Education 
Coronado  High  School,  Ooronado, 

Gallf. 
Galesburg  High  School,  Oalesburg,  U. 
Illinois  WMleyan  University, 

Bloomlngton,  III. 


Technical  High  School,  Atlanta,  Qm. 
University  of  BUssourl,  Columbia,  Mo. 
Miss.  Agricultural  &  Mech.  College, 

Agricultural  College,  Miss. 
University  of  Oregon,  Eugene,  Ore, 
Mass.  Agricultural  College,  Amherst, 

Mass. 
Johns  Hopkins  Medical  School, 

Baltimore,  Md. 
Qnlncy  Industrial  School,  Qulncy, 

Miaaa. 
University  of  Texas,  Austin,  Texas 
University  of  Illinois,  Urbana,  lU. 
Akron,  Ohio,  Board  of  Education 
Fort  Apache  Indian  School,  Holbrook, 

Arlx. 
Somerset,  Ky„  Board  of  Education 
Huntington,  W.Va.,  Board  of  Education 
Clark  University,  Worcester,  Mass. 
Steiilng  Towngliip  High  School, 

Sterling,  DL 
Fort  Wayne  Vocational  School, 

Fort  Wayne,  Ind. 
University  of  Porto  BIco 
Bldgway-Bore.  School  Dlst.,  Bldgway, 

Fa. 
Bliss  Electric  School,  WasUngtoB, 

D.  C 
Centennial  High  School,  Pncblo,  Colo. 
Oswego  Normal  School,  Oswego,  N.  T. 
Queen  Anne  High  School,  Seattle.Waab. 
Ballard  High  School,  Seattle,  Wash. 
West  SeatUe  High  School,  Set 

^"■^  University 


Southei 

T  .ihrar 


